tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-232475912024-03-07T00:33:35.662-05:00Fierce Girl DesignJill Jenningshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01305177376856047686noreply@blogger.comBlogger144125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23247591.post-86181326809536775642012-10-24T07:00:00.000-04:002012-10-24T07:00:04.741-04:00There's A New Blog In Town<p>Good news! The FGD blog has moved to a <a href="http://fiercegirldesign.com/blog">new location</a>!</p>
<p>I've spent the last few month redesigning my freelance website in Wordpress, which has allowed me to combine my blog and my website into one awesome website/blog sandwich! So don't waste another minute. Come on over to the new site and check out the redesigned blog. You don't want to miss a thing. You can find all the design discussion, travel logs, refashions, home decorating, and more <a href="http://fiercegirldesign.com/blog">here</a>.</p>Jill Jenningshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01305177376856047686noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23247591.post-80961768904499335852012-08-15T16:01:00.000-04:002012-08-15T16:10:04.115-04:00There's A Method To My Orla KielyWhile I was at Target the other day, I wandered down the soap aisle. I just can't resist the natural cleaning and pump soap aisles. While I was perusing all the fun packing, I noticed this...<br />
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Method has teamed up with Orla Kiely again to create these adorable little soap pumps. I was pretty low on pump soap, so I brought one home (I just couldn't resist!).
Here she is in our master bath.<br />
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I chose the "Bayleaf" fragrance, which smells fresh and crisp, almost like an evergreen. They come in four fragrances and you can read more about them <a href="http://methodhome.com/shop/gel-hand-wash-orla-kiely/" target="_blank">here</a>.</div>
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Jill Jenningshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01305177376856047686noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23247591.post-53274062362531375992012-06-23T22:42:00.000-04:002012-06-27T20:01:47.918-04:00California Here We Come!We said goodbye to our first home today. It was so strange to see it empty after living there for over six years.</br>
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But now it's time to move on. To California to be specific. But first a two week road trip...
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<strong>KENTUCK KNOB</strong></br>
Our trip began in Dunbar, PA with a tour of Kentuck Knob house designed by Frank Lloyd Wright.</br>
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The house was built in the traditional Usonian style and reminded me a lot of the Zimmerman house, also Usonian, in Manchester, NH. It was a beautifully tranquil space and Zach and I thoroughly enjoyed our visit.
We arrived around 12:30, which gave us just enough time to grab a quick bite to eat in their lovely little greenhouse cafe.</br>
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Then we took a short bus ride up to the house where Diana, our tour guide, gave us an informative tour of the house...</br>
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...and then encouraged us to walk the short path over to the scenic outlook.</br>
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We weren't allowed to take any interior shots, so I only have exterior photos.
One of the most interesting parts of the tour was the uniquely-designed "sun dial" created by the windows in the overhang of the veranda.</br>
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The shapes cast by the sun, move across the floor as the sun rises and sets. During this time of year, they run right down the center of the floor at noon, but during other times of the year they are near the doors off the living room or by the perimeter wall. Such a cool concept!</br>
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After the tour, we took the path to the "Sculpture Meadow" filled with, you guessed it, sculptures. They even had a couple Andy Goldworthy installations including this "Floodstones Cairn."</br>
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And this interesting sea of red people.</br>
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And this weird cast iron piece from France. Zach and I think it may have been a shower or an outhouse.</br>
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There was even an apple core designed by American artist, Claes Oldenburg.</br>
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And a piece of the Berlin wall.</br>
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Eventually we ended up back where we started, at the greenhouse cafe and shop.</br>
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I think this is one of my favorite Wright houses to date. We've got several other house visits planned during this trip, so we'll see how they all stack up.Jill Jenningshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01305177376856047686noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23247591.post-65319389975461516572012-05-18T17:10:00.002-04:002012-05-22T16:44:56.537-04:00I'm Lovin': Amazing LEGO BirdsI found these amazing LEGO birds on the <a href="http://www.thisiscolossal.com/2012/05/british-birds-made-of-lego/" target="_blank">Colossal website</a> today. They're designed and constructed by <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/detomaso/with/7194606332/" target="_blank">Thomas Poulsom</a>. The open wings are amazing. And don't you just love that hanging box of rennet?
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If you love these birds too, head on over to the <a href="http://lego.cuusoo.com/ideas/view/16897" target="_blank">LEGO website</a> and show Thomas some lovin' support.Jill Jenningshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01305177376856047686noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23247591.post-32633220891562232692012-04-25T08:32:00.002-04:002012-04-25T08:32:00.267-04:00Elements Of My ChildhoodWhen I was young, my mom and my nana made a lot of my clothing. My mom sewed and my nana crocheted. A while back, my mom gave me a bag of what remained from my childhood. I carefully washed each piece, but that's as far as I got. Since then I've just been moving them from one area of the house to another, planning to <i>eventually</i> photograph all of them for posterity. Well, I finally got around to it. I went to Joann's and bought some white muslin fabric to use as a backdrop, laid it out on the living room floor, and carefully placed each dress, coat, skirt, and sweater in the middle of the fabric, one at a time, until I had photographed all of them. As I was styling each piece, I realized how much love and care went into making each of them. All of the dresses my mom made had pockets in them. One of them even had a little appliqué turtle sewn on the front, near the collar, like a Lacost alligator. Each button had been carefully selected. Each sweater edge had been expertly finished. Each lining lovingly sewn. Even the dirndls, a traditional German dress, which came from my aunt and uncle in Germany had been sewn with great care (albeit in a factory, but well made none-the-less). No detail was overlooked, from the appliqués to the buttons, to the matching aprons and decorative edging. <br />
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And now comes the slightly difficult part, letting them go. I know it's just clothing, but it's also a little piece of my past wrapped up in love and happy memories of feeling special and pretty, as every little girl should feel at some point. But it's time to pass them on. I'm giving them to two very dear college friends so their little girls can feel special and pretty. Who knew a carefully selected button or a delicately stitched sweater edge could be so powerful. Thanks Mom...Thanks Nana...for making me feel special and pretty.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWiFvFjOW1kRDe6aCFE5oryQwhJFqEqXV0IutJyKOcOzfe5pXt0ngA-w4PAfY7DnFWD1Ezetz8llgrmgWJ5YoxmcbdMjDm17_BPbXZymbRDSTl8RMtHj6yhHYmxUvj6pLIMMS_rg/s1600/childhood6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWiFvFjOW1kRDe6aCFE5oryQwhJFqEqXV0IutJyKOcOzfe5pXt0ngA-w4PAfY7DnFWD1Ezetz8llgrmgWJ5YoxmcbdMjDm17_BPbXZymbRDSTl8RMtHj6yhHYmxUvj6pLIMMS_rg/s1600/childhood6.jpg" /></a></div>Jill Jenningshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01305177376856047686noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23247591.post-73113482938653342382012-04-18T15:57:00.001-04:002012-04-18T15:58:00.069-04:00Skunks Pick Vegetables DeliberatelyI've been designing and programming websites for about six years now and everything I know, I taught myself. But for some reason, I just can't seem to remember all the terminology. Probably, in part, because I work alone, so I rarely have to communicate with others about CSS or XHTML. There is that rare occasion when I do need to explain something (usually to my husband) and it's then that I realize how ridiculous I sound as I try to come up with the words necessary to prove I actually know what I'm talking about. Words like "selector" and "element" and "declaration." Today I decided enough is enough. I'm sick of not being able to communicate my CSS knowledge, so I'm going to use the old school technique of creating an acronym that represents what I want to remember.<br />
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First, a quick lesson in CSS for anyone who is curious. According to the <a href="http://www.w3schools.com/" target="_blank">w3schools website</a>, "A CSS rule has two main parts: a selector, and one or more declarations." This is what the CSS code looks like:<br />
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Typically the selector is an HTML element (a.k.a "tag") that you want to style to look a certain way. In the example above, the "p" element stands for "paragraph." So you're telling your website, "hey, I want to style all paragraphs to show up bold with 12 point text." I'm not sure why you would want to bold all your paragraph text, but now you know how to.<br />
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There are three main types of selectors: id, class, and element. "In addition to setting a style for a HTML element, CSS allows you to specify your own selectors called 'id' and 'class.'" You use different selectors depending on what you want to do. "The id selector is used to specify a style for a single, unique element" whereas "The class selector is used to specify a style for a group of elements. Unlike the id selector, the class selector is most often used on several elements."<br />
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Like I said, I have trouble keeping all these terms straight. It's ridiculous really. So I'm calling on my old friend "acronym" to help me out. I need to remember that a <b>declaration</b> is made up of a <b>property</b> and its <b>value</b>. And the whole thing styles a specified <b>selector</b>.<br />
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And here's how I'm going to remember it:<br />
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Anyone else struggle to remember stuff? Everything was so easy to remember when I was a kid. Wish I could reclaim that clarity and memory skill. Speaking of being a kid, stay tuned for a post I'm working on about some of my childhood clothing made by my mom and nana. <br />
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** All quoted text taken from the <a href="http://www.w3schools.com/" target="_blank">w3schools website</a>. They're a wealth of knowledge, so check 'em out!Jill Jenningshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01305177376856047686noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23247591.post-16327074374842687942012-03-26T08:58:00.002-04:002012-03-26T09:00:24.758-04:00The Big Three SixI turned 36 this weekend, and I can't help but notice that I'm now closer to 40 than I am to 30. I'm trying not to think about it. Isn't 36 the new 24? Besides, you're only as old as you feel (I truly believe that.), and I feel pretty darn good (Must be all those veggies my mama made me eat.). So I'm not going to let a stupid number get to me. I am going to try to embrace life and all its opportunities with a little more fever though.<br />
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The day started with my phone chiming out alerts in my ear like a little alarm clock. When I reached to see what all the yammering was about, I saw my first few "Happy Birthdays" had been posted on Facebook. What a great "alarm clock" to wake up to! Alerts continued sporadically for a few hours, and every message I read made me so thankful and happy that people took the time to acknowledge my birthday. Everyone is just so darn thoughtful. I don't check Facebook with much consistency, so I miss a lot of birthdays, which is why I'm even more touched by these well wishes. It's also why I spent the whole day periodically uploading photos and writing about my day; I thought it would be nice to share my day with my friends and family.<br />
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It was a perfect day. Zach's always so good about planning special days for me. In the morning he took me to get apple cider doughnuts at Highland Orchards.<br />
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Then it was back home to open gifts and the loveliest card full of kind words and love. After that we headed to New Hope, PA and Lambertville, NJ, where we spent the day walking around and perusing some of the clothing and antique shops. We even walked by a super cool old train with dining cars. <br />
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We had an amazing dinner at Sprig and Vine, a vegetarian restaurant in New Hope, and then headed to Solebury School, a private boarding school, for a Bess Rogers concert. I think we were the only two people there who weren't associated with the school. Zach has seen Bess perform live before, but this was my first concert. Man is that girl talented. It was a great show. She's very laid back and chats and jokes with the crowd a lot, which I loved. On the way home, we stopped at Chik-fil-A so I could go to the bathroom and then decided to get ice cream from the drive through. Not the best ice cream in the world, but tasty none-the-less. It was such a fun day, and it even stopped raining in the afternoon! I feel really blessed to have such a thoughtful hubby.<br />
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One thing I failed to mention about my day is the fact that I watched an episode of One Tree Hill while trying to convince myself to get up. Yes, I confess, I've been watching OTH. And Yes, I also confess, I've been watching it long enough that I now abbreviate it as OTH. But the first eight seasons are on Netflix, and once you start watching, you just can't stop (at least I can't). Now that I've confessed, I want to share a quote from the end of the episode. It seemed like a totally appropriate way to start my birthday...<br />
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<i>Make a wish and place it in your heart. Anything you want. Everything you want. Do you have it? Good. Now believe it can come true. You never know where the next miracle is gonna come from. The next smile. The next wish come true. But if you believe that it's right around the corner and you open your heart and mind to the possibility of it. To the certainty of it. You just might get the thing you're wishing for. The world is full of magic. You just have to believe in it. So make your wish. Do you have it? Good. Now believe in it...with all your heart.</i>Jill Jenningshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01305177376856047686noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23247591.post-49220302904657627302012-02-17T08:15:00.017-05:002012-03-13T23:07:17.878-04:00Longwood Gardens in WinterI went to Longwood Gardens again the other day. I just love it there. So peaceful and serene. It's a perfect escape from the cold, bareness of winter.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicOlwuX9KwYMHti_XiixAb54c-znnEM40p95DwOV1fP6EgG-JXlDjbYpG5qALobYtYr6K-jUpcGwv7iHax8njL1IAlSJHVBHAwL23GEqeypuKfMS68YMdlDVuxyWIHo35AGhtfVA/s1600/JMJ-20120213-0749.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicOlwuX9KwYMHti_XiixAb54c-znnEM40p95DwOV1fP6EgG-JXlDjbYpG5qALobYtYr6K-jUpcGwv7iHax8njL1IAlSJHVBHAwL23GEqeypuKfMS68YMdlDVuxyWIHo35AGhtfVA/s1600/JMJ-20120213-0749.jpg" /></a></div>Jill Jenningshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01305177376856047686noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23247591.post-35770553844528941582012-02-03T09:13:00.006-05:002012-02-03T09:27:26.187-05:00Let's Frame Something: FinishingWell, miraculously, we've made it to the final day of this week-long tutorial. Today we're going to be talking about the final steps needed to finish framing your piece so you can hang it on the wall. Yippee!<br />
<br />
<b>Here's a list of basic supplies you'll need:</b><br />
backing board with mat board and artwork attached (hinged, dry mounted or other attachment method)<br />
glass or plexiglass (cut to size)<br />
frame<br />
point driver (if your frame doesn't have metal tabs on the back of it.)<br />
ATG double-sided tape (and tape gun, if you have one. If not, don't worry)<br />
craft paper (for dust cover)<br />
hangers with screws<br />
hanging wire<br />
bumpers (optional)<br />
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<b>Putting Everything Into The Frame</b><br />
Now we need to take our picture sandwich and pop it into the frame. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHRs4TwVmKSA9R2SSXuEdN9kc_waeHnz4o1Bif3kBTssWivMC_pfCsSzob0eOWMaXyqC-Yfapo4Z4ii68_iCDzUqz345bn-rnuozk2ILRJvIokF9yNq12pABQnNJvVu0IasKcyBg/s1600/framingDay5-01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHRs4TwVmKSA9R2SSXuEdN9kc_waeHnz4o1Bif3kBTssWivMC_pfCsSzob0eOWMaXyqC-Yfapo4Z4ii68_iCDzUqz345bn-rnuozk2ILRJvIokF9yNq12pABQnNJvVu0IasKcyBg/s1600/framingDay5-01.jpg" /></a></div><br />
I custom ordered my frame online from <a href="http://www.pictureframes.com/scripts/WebObjects/PictureFrames.woa/wa/CustomCollection?sec=Gallery%20Maple&browse=Collection" target="_blank">here</a>. It's a solid maple frame that they built to my specified dimensions (13 5/8" by 13 5/8"). You may notice it came with little black metal tabs on the back. These are bent down over the backing board to hold everything in place. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrH2BOhvZteQ00eSyuWrkbvgMZggJ_nyuXD0-1NQnBQup9mQByZcKOhCF_H7x4GNrnLVCSl_Pm_U-fg_C1blhqITz7w2AdwrHv_eEHZW71aGTBLKiZLhd9bkvd0c_yu4nZ__viyw/s1600/framingDay5-02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrH2BOhvZteQ00eSyuWrkbvgMZggJ_nyuXD0-1NQnBQup9mQByZcKOhCF_H7x4GNrnLVCSl_Pm_U-fg_C1blhqITz7w2AdwrHv_eEHZW71aGTBLKiZLhd9bkvd0c_yu4nZ__viyw/s1600/framingDay5-02.jpg" /></a></div><br />
Here's a close up of the back side of the frame, with one of the tabs bent down.<br />
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Some frames (particularly custom ones) don't come with those tabs. It's times like these when you need a <a href="http://www.pictureframes.com/html/pointdriver.html" target="_blank">point driver</a>. Designed to fire little metal points into the side of your frame, a point driver is a super useful tool to have on hand when custom framing. <br />
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Okay, it's time to load your picture sandwich into the frame. Pick up your stack of backing board, artwork, mat, and glass and carefully pinch it together with one hand (like holding a book). While tipping the back of the frame towards it, line up one side of your stack with the back of the frame. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglH3rUnOWrsRyiGad9gt8bb4MmH_VSHAUEKLx0AlT_Feh7SVzEbk1nv8kean-SqL4MlSeeEEIP79VuwcOhHsAy5P06F2T39eQT5sd8jb59t5QxhtDQQ6M5gbuzlCq1Pm6sApdeRw/s1600/framingDay5-06.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglH3rUnOWrsRyiGad9gt8bb4MmH_VSHAUEKLx0AlT_Feh7SVzEbk1nv8kean-SqL4MlSeeEEIP79VuwcOhHsAy5P06F2T39eQT5sd8jb59t5QxhtDQQ6M5gbuzlCq1Pm6sApdeRw/s1600/framingDay5-06.jpg" /></a></div><br />
This can be a bit like a Laurel and Hardy show and sometimes it's easier to load the glass into the frame first and then everything else because the glass tends to catch on those little metal tabs on the frame (one negative of having them). You should have seen me trying to set up the sequence of shots for this step. Imagine me trying to prop up the frame with one hand and slide the glass in with the other. As I was doing this, the frame was so slippery, it started to slide across the table, almost pushing my artwork onto the floor which caused me to start flailing around (the logical choice in any situation like this) trying to simultaneously stop the frame from sliding and catch the artwork with the other. Unfortunately, the hand trying to do the catching was holding a big piece of glass at the time. Let's just say I lucked out and didn't break the glass. All this is to say, don't do that.<br />
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So load your glass in first if it's easier. <br />
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Get your hand underneath the frame and slowly lower the glass down into the frame. <br />
Don't worry about getting finger prints on the underside of the glass at this point. As long as the side of the glass that will be facing your artwork is clean, you're good to go. <br />
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During this step, you may kick up some dust or bits of frame onto the glass. Just take a paper towel, or, even better, a lint-free cloth, and spray it with a little Windex. Then gently wipe away the dust and bits. After the glass is dry, gently lay everything else into the frame.<br />
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Push down the metal tabs onto the back of the backing board (you may need to use a screw driver), but only push down the one in the middle of each side. <br />
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Then flip over your piece and check it for dust. If everything looks good, flip it back over and depress the rest of the tabs.<br />
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If you find some dust or bits floating around, hold the frame in both hands as if you're about to hang it on the wall (perpendicular to the table). Then gently tap the bottom of the frame on your work surface (being very careful not to damage your frame or table or to break the glass). If this doesn't dislodge the offending bits, flip your frame back over, lift the tabs (aren't you glad you only depressed four of them?) and lift everything off the glass so you can wipe off the inside of the glass. Once the glass is clean and dry (make sure it's dry!), check your mat and artwork for any remaining dust etc. and then place them back into the frame. This step can be maddening. Just when you think you've gotten every last bit of dust out and you depress ALL of those tabs, you find something else behind the glass. Hang in there. You will eventually get it right. Or you'll say "good enough!" and give up. Either way, you'll be done with this part.<br />
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<b>Applying The Dust Cover</b><br />
It was a huge pain to get all that dust out, so you want to protect your artwork from any more dust particles (or spiders or other bugs) that try to sneak in behind the glass (the nerve!). What you need is a dust cover. Regular old craft paper, available at most craft stores (I've actually even found it at Ikea with the wrapping paper) works perfectly as a dust cover. simply roll out a section large enough to cover the back of your frame. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVWLg2Y2t6RSvJGaBIx-xTPzVIsVYUVM8yEHnci1hmSFXXXOPVrIU6qFBrbvNWigc9b8M_98ml6lVR0y-j1cr8t6MIQ70CbhCJMbimRUfafEQqTzkpAA5QhLD_oKDPJzD-dwcslw/s1600/framingDay5-11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVWLg2Y2t6RSvJGaBIx-xTPzVIsVYUVM8yEHnci1hmSFXXXOPVrIU6qFBrbvNWigc9b8M_98ml6lVR0y-j1cr8t6MIQ70CbhCJMbimRUfafEQqTzkpAA5QhLD_oKDPJzD-dwcslw/s1600/framingDay5-11.jpg" /></a></div><br />
Crease along the edges (so you can see where your frame ends)...<br />
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and cut slightly larger than where you creased.<br />
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Set cover aside. <br />
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Now use your tape gun to apply ATG double-sided tape around the perimeter of the back of your frame. Here:<br />
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What? You don't have an ATG tape gun? Don't worry, neither do I. <br />
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I guess I should have mentioned ATG tape on day one of this tutorial, but I didn't think about it until now (What kind of half-baked tutorial is this?). Basically ATG tape is a double-sided tape used by framers to stick things together, specifically the dust cover to the frame (and sometimes the mat to the backing board). It comes in regular (acidic) and acid-free varieties and can be applied with, our without, a snazzy applicator gun (but the gun, of course, makes it a lot easier). The tape has a plastic backing on it, so you can easily apply it without the aid of a tape gun. Simply unroll a little tape and press it down along the back permimeter of the frame, unrolling more tape as you need it and pressing as you go. Then remove the tape backing.<br />
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FULL DISCLOSURE:<br />
I don't usually apply a dust cover because I'm lazy. So I don't actually have any ATG tape to show you this step. But who needs pictures? My perfectly clear instructions and razor sharp wit are really all you need.<br />
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Once you've applied your tape, carefully center your dust cover over your frame <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqSvphjxLpdcTxsWmp1ONYmFA_ABhhkK_LRjCGf6PNWUkDp5hv1hWvFHWz5ZOy5fPcZbGPEVUIc0bVy_0MeYmHpWHcjDJYEyjw-0V8tEayeaftkvN8gyUks_OiGHO7oPJsoOePpA/s1600/framingDay5-15.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqSvphjxLpdcTxsWmp1ONYmFA_ABhhkK_LRjCGf6PNWUkDp5hv1hWvFHWz5ZOy5fPcZbGPEVUIc0bVy_0MeYmHpWHcjDJYEyjw-0V8tEayeaftkvN8gyUks_OiGHO7oPJsoOePpA/s1600/framingDay5-15.jpg" /></a></div><br />
and firmly press it onto the tape along one side of the frame, creasing the paper over the edge of the frame. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhorrSeVz3xCZyBH3TJ8TYNwkU3vj6ooKEYpEjQ65R7rz2ffrU-nzLWWg25bzQa_CzNO1xOpuds7TZr8inFLC4oxsglquP652BSuUGLb2HdqpwWCwzUcNtW4DPady0eaO4seAuHHg/s1600/framingDay5-16.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhorrSeVz3xCZyBH3TJ8TYNwkU3vj6ooKEYpEjQ65R7rz2ffrU-nzLWWg25bzQa_CzNO1xOpuds7TZr8inFLC4oxsglquP652BSuUGLb2HdqpwWCwzUcNtW4DPady0eaO4seAuHHg/s1600/framingDay5-16.jpg" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXGVXStOGPjPHAB9GPrjO19EnbydQXw9sSh5zn6vW0zNtEqh4z6pIPa2N0MRmo096dhFkTGEa3QAk7e8B_keQEuggXAE0FPH3JZfptIo_D-uhn5Qi5jGdMhYPW9_KmIDEOS0ouRg/s1600/framingDay5-17.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXGVXStOGPjPHAB9GPrjO19EnbydQXw9sSh5zn6vW0zNtEqh4z6pIPa2N0MRmo096dhFkTGEa3QAk7e8B_keQEuggXAE0FPH3JZfptIo_D-uhn5Qi5jGdMhYPW9_KmIDEOS0ouRg/s1600/framingDay5-17.jpg" /></a></div><br />
Then pull the paper taught across the frame and firmly press the paper onto the tape on the opposite side. Do the same for the remaining two sides so the paper is firmly stuck to the back of the frame and creased on all four sides. The creasing helps you see where your frame ends so you know where to trim the excess paper.<br />
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Now take a straight razor blade, and with your pointer finger extending down next to the frame, slowly (and carefully!) drag the blade along the paper using your finger as a guide.<br />
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Once you've removed the excess paper on all four sides you can proceed to the next step.<br />
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<b>Adding The Hanging Wire</b><br />
Before you begin this step, quickly lift your frame up and verify that the top of your artwork is the side closest to you. We want to make sure when we measure for the hanging wire placement, that we do so on the correct side of the frame. We don't want to attach our wire to the wrong end.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO7RtGNllKSpkCn1d3qySAQAP6PNvgB_fpvG9PcdHJ3yeK1ORXrjcppKbLSr6LRzOLsV-B7RdffE8xy6c5QMRRsaLem5pb7ctWYr72530KeDk3s1xnz-m6wkxt9p-xDEHHNlgbrw/s1600/framingDay5-19.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO7RtGNllKSpkCn1d3qySAQAP6PNvgB_fpvG9PcdHJ3yeK1ORXrjcppKbLSr6LRzOLsV-B7RdffE8xy6c5QMRRsaLem5pb7ctWYr72530KeDk3s1xnz-m6wkxt9p-xDEHHNlgbrw/s1600/framingDay5-19.jpg" /></a></div><br />
Our frame measures about 15 inches high from outside edge to outside edge. We want our wire hanger to be about 1/3 of the way down from the top of the frame, about 5 inches (15 ÷ 3 = 5). Note: When I say "top of the frame" it's technically the bottom of the frame from our current view point, since we've flipped the frame over so the top of our artwork is closest to us. So measure 5 inches from the bottom edge and mark with a pencil. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUUvGv2iFmD63XKDzkExGyFoQ4f7QJc-Ni3RdyWSOQQsfCfJyybKoEOkteNUNtWJQ1TBQsJO6dMvv-W4o9lXr3B1PJ-MbAd9_MB77aUzdwWPB7oE_jxIUEHTZtheo8G8OW-OuWPg/s1600/framingDay5-20.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUUvGv2iFmD63XKDzkExGyFoQ4f7QJc-Ni3RdyWSOQQsfCfJyybKoEOkteNUNtWJQ1TBQsJO6dMvv-W4o9lXr3B1PJ-MbAd9_MB77aUzdwWPB7oE_jxIUEHTZtheo8G8OW-OuWPg/s1600/framingDay5-20.jpg" /></a></div><br />
Then drill a small pilot hole in the frame. Try to center it on the frame so you don't drill too close to the outside edge and ruin your frame. You also don't want to drill too deep. There's nothing worse then flipping your frame right side up and realizing you've drilled straight through to the front. Maddness. Measure and drill on the opposite side as well.<br />
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Whenever I order my frames online, I get a nice little kit that includes, two hangers, two screws, and some wire. Most frames should come with these items, if not, you can pick up a kit at most craft stores or frame shops.<br />
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Screw your hangers into the pre-drilled holes until they're firmly in place and don't shift from side to side.<br />
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Take one end of your wire and feed it through one of the hangers.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQkIHcSgni3Gn_CwcombKMZMSm8ov5hyCk0CyZ4_c2gACOd7tw5YAvVrFh77wtZjATrvZiNjLgbvnuIWS7whPZds2PO8txRtthwaiXfOCjNeFpIZSn63wDjBi0ntW47MY2_LxlLQ/s1600/framingDay5-24.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQkIHcSgni3Gn_CwcombKMZMSm8ov5hyCk0CyZ4_c2gACOd7tw5YAvVrFh77wtZjATrvZiNjLgbvnuIWS7whPZds2PO8txRtthwaiXfOCjNeFpIZSn63wDjBi0ntW47MY2_LxlLQ/s1600/framingDay5-24.jpg" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAtnZqRXG_meKQu20mamkBzR0ofT_uixDwNZSHmNLmrukEc6UTHDJO_QR25lnafDI1j0l6Bx3l289qC40hVa3sD4nG0B7-Kdr-C1NDZggyPOX9npiWiZRZq4MbaIhz_MQIOgyY3g/s1600/framingDay5-25.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAtnZqRXG_meKQu20mamkBzR0ofT_uixDwNZSHmNLmrukEc6UTHDJO_QR25lnafDI1j0l6Bx3l289qC40hVa3sD4nG0B7-Kdr-C1NDZggyPOX9npiWiZRZq4MbaIhz_MQIOgyY3g/s1600/framingDay5-25.jpg" /></a></div><br />
Wrap the loose end underneath the wire, from front to back.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWBd3-7BLQdMot0Pc3LvVw6nKRTDZr-U07mf-sQDrjb99aY4Qq-ZIYyBhvBCIsazrwCoKqWQCfOzcp4D2NoWC1wgCydb8DdkxysyzDJVfMAvgZm6_isuaMerCftXLAg4z15i2UqQ/s1600/framingDay5-26.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWBd3-7BLQdMot0Pc3LvVw6nKRTDZr-U07mf-sQDrjb99aY4Qq-ZIYyBhvBCIsazrwCoKqWQCfOzcp4D2NoWC1wgCydb8DdkxysyzDJVfMAvgZm6_isuaMerCftXLAg4z15i2UqQ/s1600/framingDay5-26.jpg" /></a></div><br />
Feed the loose end through the hanger again and pull it tight.<br />
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Pull the loose end under the wire so the loose end is closest to you. Now wrap the loose end up over the top of the wire (away from you) <br />
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and back around underneth the wire (towards you).<br />
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Continue wrapping the loose end around the wire several more times. <br />
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Trim any excess, if neccesary. <br />
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Pull the wire taut and loop it through the other hanger, repeating the same wire wrapping process. <br />
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Trim the excess with a pair of wire cutters.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBnA7sLRS2VApghyphenhyphenFeks__HJ322E3Rx0-fgZDbgwdaRd5knHQnVoY-C8tVM2yNBmwZ_MMuHodLJxYDmiUrOei31u-dna2SzEWdNrvs1TZ1arkFYVyX_f4SKyzyLQoCTbzlcCF_hA/s1600/framingDay5-35.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBnA7sLRS2VApghyphenhyphenFeks__HJ322E3Rx0-fgZDbgwdaRd5knHQnVoY-C8tVM2yNBmwZ_MMuHodLJxYDmiUrOei31u-dna2SzEWdNrvs1TZ1arkFYVyX_f4SKyzyLQoCTbzlcCF_hA/s1600/framingDay5-35.jpg" /></a></div><br />
At this point you can add, what are known in the industry as "bumpers," to the back of your frame. Bumpers are tiny little rubber dots that are sticky on one side so you can attach them to the back bottom two corners of your frame to prevent your frame from scratching your wall. You can find them in most craft stores (I know. Who would have guessed?). <br />
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And here's our finished piece:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKrcjUMCPv4ApnlucwM6wk0oSoD2Gj82IkJCZWbIRIG49cgu49W5s5gJfl5EyaXMyhjmBDqVsAMWPBTIz3DFHkUBNGg7zoSttjxPStOUhaXIHNxCiQO04jeFCdy4_X8MtgnpiWiA/s1600/framingDay5-09.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKrcjUMCPv4ApnlucwM6wk0oSoD2Gj82IkJCZWbIRIG49cgu49W5s5gJfl5EyaXMyhjmBDqVsAMWPBTIz3DFHkUBNGg7zoSttjxPStOUhaXIHNxCiQO04jeFCdy4_X8MtgnpiWiA/s1600/framingDay5-09.jpg" /></a></div><br />
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Well, I hope you've found this week-long <strike>decent into hell</strike> tutorial to be helpful and that it's given you the courage and the skills to frame something with your own two hands (and save yourself some dough in the process!). If you have any questions or need anything clarified, leave me a note in the comments section, and I'll do my best to help you out. Happy framing!Jill Jenningshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01305177376856047686noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23247591.post-37484191630835408542012-02-02T08:45:00.004-05:002012-02-02T13:35:43.859-05:00Let's Frame Something: Mounting, Glass SafetyIf you've made it this far, I applaud you. I barely made it this far and <b>I'M</b> the one writing this overly-wordy, week-long tutorial. What can I say, I wanted to be thorough.<br />
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<b>Here's a list of basic supplies you'll need:</b><br />
acid-free tape (designed for custom framing)<br />
mat board (cut to size)<br />
backing board (cut to size)<br />
glass or plexiglass (cut to size)<br />
artwork to be framed<br />
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Today we're going to talk about how to attach your artwork to your backing board so it shows through the opening in your mat properly.<br />
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<b>MOUNTING YOUR ARTWORK</b><br />
There are several ways to mount your artwork, and the one you choose is determined by the value of your artwork.<br />
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<i><b>Drymounting</b></i> - Perfect for posters because it keeps them nice and flat by essentially gluing them to the foam core backing. A sheet of adhesive paper is placed between the poster and the foam core. Then the entire thing is placed in a drymount press that heats your little poster and foamcore sandwich until the glue fuses the two together. Not recommended for sentimental, valuable, or archival items because the mounting is permanent and the glue is acidic.<br />
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<i><b>Hinging</b></i> - Recommended for sentimental, valuable, or archival items, this process creates a "hinge" using special acid-free tape designed for custom framing. The tape is only applied to the top edge of the artwork, allowing it to hang free on the other three sides.<br />
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<i><b>Photo Corners</b></i> - These can be used in leu of hinging tape and will provide a safe environment for your photos as long as the corners are acid-free.<br />
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<b>Hinging Technique</b><br />
You never want to attach your artwork to it's mat with something like masking tape which is definitely NOT acid-free, especially if you've gone through the trouble of making everything else acid-free. Over time, the masking tape will dry out and flake off, leaving a nasty, discolored tape-shaped stain on your artwork beneath it. Boo! <br />
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You want to use special tape designed specifically for framing. I use <a href="http://www.pictureframes.com/html/tape.html" target="_blank">conservation tape</a> that is acid-free and creates a strong bond between the artwork and the mat board. There's all sorts of different types available at craft stores and online, from paper tape to linen tape. Just make sure whatever you choose is acid-free and designed for framing, like <a href="http://www.unitedmfrs.com/Archival_Products.cfm" target="_blank">these</a>.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLyZhed1HsFi66nbDNVpjLAbSgv-gnUysWoqZJ568d9b5bjXjfiXeLH9Rq9c10K1KebQ6sMaBVmSMaYaO2wL7EtnY18Vczqpy6vVNRXZuxUKsveQ9AEICmw4i3kO5hRqb6Qyi5qw/s1600/framing10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLyZhed1HsFi66nbDNVpjLAbSgv-gnUysWoqZJ568d9b5bjXjfiXeLH9Rq9c10K1KebQ6sMaBVmSMaYaO2wL7EtnY18Vczqpy6vVNRXZuxUKsveQ9AEICmw4i3kO5hRqb6Qyi5qw/s1600/framing10.jpg" /></a></div><br />
The traditional way of attaching your artwork to your backing board is known as "hinging." Today I'm going to show you a basic hinge mounting technique known as a "T-hinge." You always want to use several small hinges rather than one large hinge that runs the whole length of the piece. Using several smaller hinges lets the artwork hang freely and allows for its natural expansion and contraction during different seasons. If you use one large hinge, your artwork may ripple over time. <br />
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FULL DISCLOSURE: Although the following is the proper way to do things, I usually cheat and just put two pieces of acid-free tape on the back of my artwork and stick them to the back of my mat. But if you're framing a really special piece, especially anything requiring archival techniques, I recommend you take the time to do it properly.<br />
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We start by laying our backing board and mat board on our work surface so the top edge of the backing board and the top edge of your mat board are kissing (awhhh, isn't that sweet). This means the back of our mat board will be facing up and the top edge will be at the bottom. Confused? Stick with me. It will all become clear. It helps to place a piece of scrap backing board underneath your mat to lift it up and make it level with your backing.<br />
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Once you've got them lined up, cut a strip of your acid-free tape slightly shorter than the width of your backing and mat and place it across the seam so your mat and your backing are now hinged together. Like this:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw_tSgOfwJeO2G3S_7zwKplDPXPu9pDyXlwI7Dt83A799jWt86sSBo1DLqlncp2dOa1mjtQUvCPhR_rlOpgczQkpSc4v1tQmiXcw1v6LoEHS0kK5YqcJfV4_GMioQxAk3okd7Wjw/s1600/framing32.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw_tSgOfwJeO2G3S_7zwKplDPXPu9pDyXlwI7Dt83A799jWt86sSBo1DLqlncp2dOa1mjtQUvCPhR_rlOpgczQkpSc4v1tQmiXcw1v6LoEHS0kK5YqcJfV4_GMioQxAk3okd7Wjw/s1600/framing32.jpg" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFRxf_qDSgcd6K4l_maizC7LRfeesq92E-oaR63RMlH8yvhwOvUMSqdzEbQvoxdbm0JhM23oHJDZdhtQAFx-K4hczNNAJCO-yE56DIBDUdPQJ31eU2Ys_aL0NPYiEP987VK0rz0g/s1600/framing31.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFRxf_qDSgcd6K4l_maizC7LRfeesq92E-oaR63RMlH8yvhwOvUMSqdzEbQvoxdbm0JhM23oHJDZdhtQAFx-K4hczNNAJCO-yE56DIBDUdPQJ31eU2Ys_aL0NPYiEP987VK0rz0g/s1600/framing31.jpg" /></a></div><br />
Now cut two more strips of tape, this time about two inches long (If your artwork is really large, you may need to cut 3 or 4 pieces of tape.). Gently attach them to the backside of the top of your artwork, making sure the tape thoroughly adheres and extends no more than a 1/2 inch onto your artwork. Like this:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJJT2hUc9QFV0LcjdEUPxA26YUVk3R1jJrGOKAbwOxrMmW8XmCi2GPW1CXDad23RNPNMlK0fmyxdgZrhyh5K341SM8eT-rYsRy8Au_LQstODIscnj6HGEiS28vAt4LtNSpcdmGDw/s1600/framing11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJJT2hUc9QFV0LcjdEUPxA26YUVk3R1jJrGOKAbwOxrMmW8XmCi2GPW1CXDad23RNPNMlK0fmyxdgZrhyh5K341SM8eT-rYsRy8Au_LQstODIscnj6HGEiS28vAt4LtNSpcdmGDw/s1600/framing11.jpg" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHWiGLHWGyArBgt7XjBlz3FqnqnfPtP8GuAwLGSyEl-0L4mjONxr2lPb9GeMTfc6CNVlziY09KCfa2YurpIzB91WOaRa9EUYZQvJwyIK20uTvdQ6ZAdW6uDVUt0dSOFcDiGiE7pg/s1600/framing38.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHWiGLHWGyArBgt7XjBlz3FqnqnfPtP8GuAwLGSyEl-0L4mjONxr2lPb9GeMTfc6CNVlziY09KCfa2YurpIzB91WOaRa9EUYZQvJwyIK20uTvdQ6ZAdW6uDVUt0dSOFcDiGiE7pg/s1600/framing38.jpg" /></a></div><br />
Lay your artwork on top of your backing board with the tape extending beyond the top edge of your artwork (sticky side up) and close the mat on top of it, being careful not to let the tape stick to the back of your mat. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggtV8gZnnjVj2jS2KnJ1oQUTrgQBiCl8CwWx5SrJDyuEJ_5lceISiOeg-3MYdAGo-EvqnxvFH00z3gD2Z9e5BPR8LqS0KFPS-RBJDNrfqWt0hZX5iMkBHnhpfi-ArtNuyJfwvXvg/s1600/framing35.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggtV8gZnnjVj2jS2KnJ1oQUTrgQBiCl8CwWx5SrJDyuEJ_5lceISiOeg-3MYdAGo-EvqnxvFH00z3gD2Z9e5BPR8LqS0KFPS-RBJDNrfqWt0hZX5iMkBHnhpfi-ArtNuyJfwvXvg/s1600/framing35.jpg" /></a></div><br />
Position your artwork within the mat opening so its edges are completely covered by the mat. If you have a piece of backing from a sticker or book of stamps, you can use it to temporarily cover the tape while you're positioning your artwork under the mat.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii1g9Yp0RzLUAOm9JJbvimo91j9uu4L-e5P1RlcfolSRB2k0mQXHWtv8P9VoyXXnGL4jwnglcnEGSiAKy-WrpUgXomNMJGOliro2afX0NgonhJdWkJIWh6UIKv-S5gpwdFP_XPpA/s1600/framing30.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii1g9Yp0RzLUAOm9JJbvimo91j9uu4L-e5P1RlcfolSRB2k0mQXHWtv8P9VoyXXnGL4jwnglcnEGSiAKy-WrpUgXomNMJGOliro2afX0NgonhJdWkJIWh6UIKv-S5gpwdFP_XPpA/s1600/framing30.jpg" /></a></div><br />
Once you have your artwork in place, carefully lift the mat off again being careful not to bump your artwork. They make special weights (They're like little leather bean bags.) that you can place on top of your artwork to prevent it from moving until you finish hinging it. If you use them, you always want to place a piece of clean paper (typically blotter paper but any clean sheet of paper will do) over your artwork first so the weights don't smudge it.<br />
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Now cut two more pieces of tape and place them across the tape you attached to your artwork to create a T shape (if you used my sticker backing tip mentioned above to temporarily cover your tape, remove it now). The second set of tape attaches the artwork to the backing board, like this:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpqVAJfe-Q10XiGDjTg9lZ2IlWOeOGuGJC32FnVBEVlFjE2RB0upyksdMvVyYSe93WSVkbYIx_MLyNXKoOGiTb9V-_NOLVJhwSVgo-c6ucRzXVXA7hpRXiDfaVCiG4IyMBOiZmPg/s1600/framing29.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpqVAJfe-Q10XiGDjTg9lZ2IlWOeOGuGJC32FnVBEVlFjE2RB0upyksdMvVyYSe93WSVkbYIx_MLyNXKoOGiTb9V-_NOLVJhwSVgo-c6ucRzXVXA7hpRXiDfaVCiG4IyMBOiZmPg/s1600/framing29.jpg" /></a></div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpy0WI2z7UlC-TaDbzaUYb089nGLR5IdczceP62yk5_ZSWTY3V2ae46vEk2brZmiDoioQxtk6zQ7Y-DppqX46gKdbPRbMbl0fgJltlZmqwxVu4eU64K62aVPQEZi0ZfT8djjRfGw/s1600/framing36.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpy0WI2z7UlC-TaDbzaUYb089nGLR5IdczceP62yk5_ZSWTY3V2ae46vEk2brZmiDoioQxtk6zQ7Y-DppqX46gKdbPRbMbl0fgJltlZmqwxVu4eU64K62aVPQEZi0ZfT8djjRfGw/s1600/framing36.jpg" /></a></div><br />
Now fold your mat back on top of your artwork and you're done! You've successfully hinged your artwork!<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIOI2cZ1yiPbgFOv9E87JLm8-nvOvgfFb6qewBG7UMFL8ro2OZ76TTHe38JAfvErn4XjX53MQWDtQY57VQOUo7KpkhOQw6qIUeuITLfDTztt58vjHmSKiliSykC0FaZ2wirqkb1g/s1600/framing34.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIOI2cZ1yiPbgFOv9E87JLm8-nvOvgfFb6qewBG7UMFL8ro2OZ76TTHe38JAfvErn4XjX53MQWDtQY57VQOUo7KpkhOQw6qIUeuITLfDTztt58vjHmSKiliSykC0FaZ2wirqkb1g/s1600/framing34.jpg" /></a></div><br />
<b>Cleaning Your Glass</b><br />
What? I haven't talked about cleaning your glass yet? Well, you're in for a treat! Not really. It's pretty boring and basic, which might be a relief to you since I fear I may have over-explained most of this tutorial. Still, based on the number of times I've cut myself while cleaning, or kneeling on, glass (yes I'm that stupid sometimes), I feel it merits a brief mention. Basically, if you keep the following rules in mind while dealing with glass, you'll have a lovely experience (and no blood!):<br />
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1. DO NOT, I repeat, DO NOT put your glass on your freshly cut, perfectly clean matted artwork until you have cleaned it! Glass is dirty, especially if you took my advice and bought it from a glass shop. <br />
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2. Place glass on a clean working table with plenty of space to maneuver (this will prevent you from kneeling on glass like I did). <br />
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3. Wear gloves if you're worried about cutting yourself - preferably ones with rubber fingers so the glass doesn't slip around on you.<br />
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4. Spray a little glass cleaner (like Windex) on your glass and take a folded paper towel and wipe from the far side of the glass to the side closest to you (basically wipe towards you). If it's really dirty, you'll have to fold the paper towel and wipe over again. The key is to avoid shimmying the glass in such a way that it cuts you, so you want to keep it as stationary as possible. I find it helpful to line it up against the edge of the table and press it against your hand while you wipe. Again, you may want to wear gloves to protect yourself.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhQ6ud0RvBvDLdVsj5OkkJmqVyuajKllclKZ6-b8k1cv62y4gLPHjU8QbFP1sc7f23uZjT5sL0FNAiAvaAt0Ist07QFx2AIIpTB4aCc0qb80Cn6FfcZuwwNZIxjfODWXYjb-jywg/s1600/framing15.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhQ6ud0RvBvDLdVsj5OkkJmqVyuajKllclKZ6-b8k1cv62y4gLPHjU8QbFP1sc7f23uZjT5sL0FNAiAvaAt0Ist07QFx2AIIpTB4aCc0qb80Cn6FfcZuwwNZIxjfODWXYjb-jywg/s1600/framing15.jpg" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKPgTCoLgZgYsXvB7Ffc3oWiOIL9zyz2ErdaoZxPAl-U07DJ00696RXUxzvAbv1pFQQB5HyVbyOeuBxizjaUgkr0TE425jNEHkMbhZI3ZtqptrKNdRGPWL4OcBd5r5KmBRJ0Ax6Q/s1600/framing16.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKPgTCoLgZgYsXvB7Ffc3oWiOIL9zyz2ErdaoZxPAl-U07DJ00696RXUxzvAbv1pFQQB5HyVbyOeuBxizjaUgkr0TE425jNEHkMbhZI3ZtqptrKNdRGPWL4OcBd5r5KmBRJ0Ax6Q/s1600/framing16.jpg" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaXkFWqLpcywhJztWdELCKF46eksss8r54kczqwRx_7W5uXImi4ghwaA875pu7IT7FTS1Em9Owt08Mk58YW-Fq9nHyIbzHdSkBLaqhdgn3DDTDrApBZA_j3rqvFBs7fZvrpamPvw/s1600/framing17.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaXkFWqLpcywhJztWdELCKF46eksss8r54kczqwRx_7W5uXImi4ghwaA875pu7IT7FTS1Em9Owt08Mk58YW-Fq9nHyIbzHdSkBLaqhdgn3DDTDrApBZA_j3rqvFBs7fZvrpamPvw/s1600/framing17.jpg" /></a></div><br />
5. Once you're sure the glass is clean, turn it over and repeat the process. When your glass is clean and dry on both sides, place it on top of your matted artwork. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkKuigzD02t4PAsUncQbmy1BjqGY9bwNkPvyVD3_YlD9e3SD4ol7-w8xPKOKDtop2TPVSCGt3QQiPdrlDdrSlEJAhGXYV9hLEJFmxoxXmpfb2zBugenhgVia4yJ3O7oq3KQVeB7Q/s1600/framing18.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkKuigzD02t4PAsUncQbmy1BjqGY9bwNkPvyVD3_YlD9e3SD4ol7-w8xPKOKDtop2TPVSCGt3QQiPdrlDdrSlEJAhGXYV9hLEJFmxoxXmpfb2zBugenhgVia4yJ3O7oq3KQVeB7Q/s1600/framing18.jpg" /></a></div><br />
Now inspect it for any minor smudges or bits of fuzz etc. If you find any on the underside, simply remove any from the top side first and then flip the glass over (carefully hold it by the edges so you don't cut yourself or smear the glass with finger prints) and place it back down on the artwork and wipe off the offending dust. This step can be maddening, but hang in there. You will eventually get rid of all the dust and fuzz. <br />
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I've found it helpful to place my fingers against the edge of stacked backing board, mat board, artwork, and glass to aid in keeping them stacked while I wipe any remaining smudges or dust off the glass. Have I mentioned you may want to wear gloves?<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWEFOyoxcs3WGsRT9MVZzVFnxSMz3WiACTV8vK4XZ_LbxDswomzVg1iWSEbALk-_uLJiwnhsG43xlLD6YAxVhmu6DnSHs4muW_EnRw2hCXYNSB2AhTcq23jm3JzjLoGqr5iPlEsw/s1600/framing19.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWEFOyoxcs3WGsRT9MVZzVFnxSMz3WiACTV8vK4XZ_LbxDswomzVg1iWSEbALk-_uLJiwnhsG43xlLD6YAxVhmu6DnSHs4muW_EnRw2hCXYNSB2AhTcq23jm3JzjLoGqr5iPlEsw/s1600/framing19.jpg" /></a></div><br />
Sometimes, it's also helpful to slightly drag the glass off the edge of the mat so you can wipe the edges without worrying about dragging cleaner or dirt off the glass and onto your clean mat.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVTg4CP8Fs_rwV6KKkpXSGfsFiyMpXn1a4rTwB8VOFTK_F321XAm0f94ck0Bf4vkZkp5M2kF8S29Qk4NHdh2DMhEBVHWMEn58vZ-mFK8e_a2Hu7_fgrzTvYQ0Tne8kLn7byYgnWQ/s1600/framing20.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVTg4CP8Fs_rwV6KKkpXSGfsFiyMpXn1a4rTwB8VOFTK_F321XAm0f94ck0Bf4vkZkp5M2kF8S29Qk4NHdh2DMhEBVHWMEn58vZ-mFK8e_a2Hu7_fgrzTvYQ0Tne8kLn7byYgnWQ/s1600/framing20.jpg" /></a></div><br />
Okay folks, We're getting close to the finish line! Tomorrow, I'll show you how to get it all in the frame and finish the dang thing so you can hang it on the wall already. See you tomorrow.Jill Jenningshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01305177376856047686noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23247591.post-18406291494104670672012-02-01T08:30:00.024-05:002012-02-01T08:41:02.763-05:00Let's Frame Something: Cutting<b>Here's a list of basic supplies you'll need:</b><br />
pencil<br />
X-acto knife<br />
ruler<br />
self-healing cutting mat or cutting board to protect work surface<br />
mat board<br />
backing board<br />
artwork to be framed<br />
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<b>Cutting the Mat Board and Backing Board (Outside Dimensions)</b><br />
If you remember from yesterday's tutorial, we determined we need to cut a piece of mat board measuring 13 5/8 inches wide by 13 5/8 inches high.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9FOhNrpiOhxvQDtHw6UlVoeUNmAVpwYs4_5tIKs8Dimg_0rkCmyXMe24x-snfkQSRuqMudiRYCZqzPDBt-MPiSMXuOt5H1oT8ngyK4b4FhzpDjBM2s0adMnRNgn7RwkFvBr1MJg/s1600/framing5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9FOhNrpiOhxvQDtHw6UlVoeUNmAVpwYs4_5tIKs8Dimg_0rkCmyXMe24x-snfkQSRuqMudiRYCZqzPDBt-MPiSMXuOt5H1oT8ngyK4b4FhzpDjBM2s0adMnRNgn7RwkFvBr1MJg/s1600/framing5.jpg" /></a></div><br />
So we measure our width of 13 5/8 inches and mark it in two spots.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhob2OGTDnplfFYXRH5P85C3OfqiDFML0vPRqsTCkM_p9qtqkhmJ90g-ekV6IGKbg0pzi4xRlRgT1nr-CEn_nqaHICn-F0zfp4JEdF7oLEg_-k6Q63ytLAsC5uH1Ikb9sTj_s-Lpg/s1600/framing3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhob2OGTDnplfFYXRH5P85C3OfqiDFML0vPRqsTCkM_p9qtqkhmJ90g-ekV6IGKbg0pzi4xRlRgT1nr-CEn_nqaHICn-F0zfp4JEdF7oLEg_-k6Q63ytLAsC5uH1Ikb9sTj_s-Lpg/s1600/framing3.jpg" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_b4yKiQDNp0QcoGq6WcI8iRHt7luRoJw6nmiUJnPZfTAUDb5cNcFx21HLYNXZsbAc_LlvePeTR_DGegVbdxqP0-sW5ZdqoPnmhZbRH9c3VzkXHkkF6g7us9c_qAWgRg0cm7elBQ/s1600/framing4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_b4yKiQDNp0QcoGq6WcI8iRHt7luRoJw6nmiUJnPZfTAUDb5cNcFx21HLYNXZsbAc_LlvePeTR_DGegVbdxqP0-sW5ZdqoPnmhZbRH9c3VzkXHkkF6g7us9c_qAWgRg0cm7elBQ/s1600/framing4.jpg" /></a></div><br />
Then we line up our ruler on those two marks and slice it with our X-acto knife like this:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxZ8geB_CfVOoYUtlevxCeWf3pBPgy6C4sd4kB1JVWJ2fdFrZJi4ye9EY0V3qAwClXYShE2KiTMLGnSacft1eSZEFei8rs5t07vDAUoan3msgNF9k9LwshwMgXyDtLHgpNTS8RVA/s1600/framing7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxZ8geB_CfVOoYUtlevxCeWf3pBPgy6C4sd4kB1JVWJ2fdFrZJi4ye9EY0V3qAwClXYShE2KiTMLGnSacft1eSZEFei8rs5t07vDAUoan3msgNF9k9LwshwMgXyDtLHgpNTS8RVA/s1600/framing7.jpg" /></a></div><br />
Well sort of like that. You'll have to forgive my one-handed ruler cutting photo. I don't actually cut things like that, but I was afraid if I left my other hand in the picture, it would block the camera and you would have gotten a photo of my shoulder. Obvioulsy you'll want to use your other hand to hold the ruler in place. <br />
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Then we mark the height (In this case, also 13 5/8 inches) in two spots (just like we did with the width), cut again...<br />
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...and we end up with this:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE0DLzVEiqymfqLTfeJq2EXOXfoAOFN8gI7WZ6Ha3rNOlbAmIQ13gZZ6XRTViV8GDFxq2KVdn2SX6DEC55rpTaMngd-WukkG9UaDAzxsSXSCtBqgAUH6_ZLajPaDs8U9cvj7owOg/s1600/framing6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE0DLzVEiqymfqLTfeJq2EXOXfoAOFN8gI7WZ6Ha3rNOlbAmIQ13gZZ6XRTViV8GDFxq2KVdn2SX6DEC55rpTaMngd-WukkG9UaDAzxsSXSCtBqgAUH6_ZLajPaDs8U9cvj7owOg/s1600/framing6.jpg" /></a></div><br />
Now repeat these steps to cut out your backing board (foam core).<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLmjsUus38MT6U7c-oHAYqidboo5kqgg2hYSSvB7YmtGaCMaWZbG_kiAU0m0bE-vBvFFG8O18H7GauTGqj7vIoL3GELv8TPltwdq5jx9VfBvOty3kylxAZR2StSdM5AI_QGBBOZA/s1600/framing08.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLmjsUus38MT6U7c-oHAYqidboo5kqgg2hYSSvB7YmtGaCMaWZbG_kiAU0m0bE-vBvFFG8O18H7GauTGqj7vIoL3GELv8TPltwdq5jx9VfBvOty3kylxAZR2StSdM5AI_QGBBOZA/s1600/framing08.jpg" /></a></div><br />
Now it's time to cut the opening of the mat. I use an <a href="http://www.altosezmat.com/products/4501_Cutter/4501_cutter.htm" target="_blank">Alto 4501 Mat Cutting System</a> to cut my mats. Obviously, if you have a different cutter, you'll have to consult your user's manual for specifics on how to use your model. If you have questions, please leave me a note in the comments, and I'll try to help you out.<br />
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<b>Cutting the Mat Board Opening</b><br />
We've determined that our mat is going to have a 2 1/2 inch border, so we need to set our cutter at 2 1/2 inches and place our freshly cut (13 5/8" by 13 5/8") piece of mat board under the straight edge guide, making sure the edge of our mat board is firmly aligned with the edge of our cutter. Then we draw a light pencil line on each of the four sides of our mat board, marking where we will be cutting.<br />
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We end up with something like this (sorry the pencil marks are sort of hard to see.):<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZkPlhsiFcn-HjCNwX-CIYlJFME7iVsfUV2_K1ExoelUpafN6IzPpg7rzELPFE1JCqK1b1bL3n8ayDWydMum2Luh_PjTZQ5vJJBAlnmEF7jMdZvz4mRRW_Ki3Mw0iIF7BYOfA1vg/s1600/framing23.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZkPlhsiFcn-HjCNwX-CIYlJFME7iVsfUV2_K1ExoelUpafN6IzPpg7rzELPFE1JCqK1b1bL3n8ayDWydMum2Luh_PjTZQ5vJJBAlnmEF7jMdZvz4mRRW_Ki3Mw0iIF7BYOfA1vg/s1600/framing23.jpg" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4jrESzsIf-d11J8p6voJiBlnwo4LBiD7lMFHFjjmfVyUy8JK9_Dg4taTfI58eqKS8_zoE3pW1NFADvJiVFl4mBxF5mxkLEmthtLI8U1xtuAAvGbfQHW1qpxwRSoeYdIZ_V_UUQw/s1600/framing24.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4jrESzsIf-d11J8p6voJiBlnwo4LBiD7lMFHFjjmfVyUy8JK9_Dg4taTfI58eqKS8_zoE3pW1NFADvJiVFl4mBxF5mxkLEmthtLI8U1xtuAAvGbfQHW1qpxwRSoeYdIZ_V_UUQw/s1600/framing24.jpg" /></a></div><br />
We then place one side back under the straight edge guide, again making sure the edge of our mat board is firmly aligned with the edge of our cutter. Then we place our cutting tool on top of our mat board, lining up the indicator line (on the red blade holder) with our pencil mark as shown.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5DCmoeG2zVLhDoAiRFPYBtn-byZgFCnwzlgMphyjBvo3UoARcjlcrm1-n_7093bo9rpnvxozLrpyFqBfqj5As6ChHG9vc2ssHuSA7z9mp3pyqEKkepW2WELbaEbkddURC7isKDw/s1600/framing26.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5DCmoeG2zVLhDoAiRFPYBtn-byZgFCnwzlgMphyjBvo3UoARcjlcrm1-n_7093bo9rpnvxozLrpyFqBfqj5As6ChHG9vc2ssHuSA7z9mp3pyqEKkepW2WELbaEbkddURC7isKDw/s1600/framing26.jpg" /></a></div><br />
Here's a close up:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpWscpziq7wXJ6GkFcPhxFapILn6XFHZTq_ftyxtfJPnMLIKrZRRgjEHpkVUcBZ2_A1bi-NfGlyY1zsjrHLYl5fRG06AnyZdA850TPCU57ZjDT5wz1Bu7ot1T7kaSYijkMtBWWaw/s1600/framing25.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpWscpziq7wXJ6GkFcPhxFapILn6XFHZTq_ftyxtfJPnMLIKrZRRgjEHpkVUcBZ2_A1bi-NfGlyY1zsjrHLYl5fRG06AnyZdA850TPCU57ZjDT5wz1Bu7ot1T7kaSYijkMtBWWaw/s1600/framing25.jpg" /></a></div><br />
We then simply depress the blade into the mat board and push slowly and steadily away from us until the blade mark aligns with our pencil mark on the opposite side. Release the blade, remove the cutting tool, turn the mat board to align the next side, and repeat the process on all three remaining sides until the center part of the mat board is completely cut out.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgETjpkbs4xM_xdtO3EAHlhdw0tCuT5KmRyxTcB4VFaKv8uIQOdoH-MoX0i0C5k9lfyDK8eNLZQuoWUBtJ0qxpv15yQiBN4vdRNaH0N48KLGP4C8A5P4ygtPCepUf4tQsDgm3E5bw/s1600/framing27.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgETjpkbs4xM_xdtO3EAHlhdw0tCuT5KmRyxTcB4VFaKv8uIQOdoH-MoX0i0C5k9lfyDK8eNLZQuoWUBtJ0qxpv15yQiBN4vdRNaH0N48KLGP4C8A5P4ygtPCepUf4tQsDgm3E5bw/s1600/framing27.jpg" /></a></div><br />
Now your mat should have a lovely beveled interior edge like this:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvSYzojS_sBFKVVwXqVecLUshzfPiDPePzzNed0hIbLTVX-v5hGoCiQTF6FhUy_fPB9gxWpZlpNj8hd3d6MRAG9yfXP3p10aeCFIoLFo_TrnuJLm-2ll7YcJrmzkOdmlq_LfJMEw/s1600/framing28.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvSYzojS_sBFKVVwXqVecLUshzfPiDPePzzNed0hIbLTVX-v5hGoCiQTF6FhUy_fPB9gxWpZlpNj8hd3d6MRAG9yfXP3p10aeCFIoLFo_TrnuJLm-2ll7YcJrmzkOdmlq_LfJMEw/s1600/framing28.jpg" /></a></div><br />
Through the magic of the internet, we now have a perfectly cut mat for our artwork. Lovely, huh?<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW9N-1uZcsO2sih2UlsX4jDqz2fkgjX2eszXCBaVbPnJWF8fqBEnSVKKJkC_zBdkNsmixaR3qS-ZzKwvVtYkpzG0FjKapcx4XkONN6_PRS71_ZRJteuQWw2UQ-aETBEt4HaP4O_Q/s1600/framing09.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW9N-1uZcsO2sih2UlsX4jDqz2fkgjX2eszXCBaVbPnJWF8fqBEnSVKKJkC_zBdkNsmixaR3qS-ZzKwvVtYkpzG0FjKapcx4XkONN6_PRS71_ZRJteuQWw2UQ-aETBEt4HaP4O_Q/s1600/framing09.jpg" /></a></div><br />
Stay tuned tomorrow for details on how to attach your artwork to the mat and some tips on how to safely handle glass.Jill Jenningshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01305177376856047686noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23247591.post-56337225037912242362012-01-31T08:44:00.004-05:002012-01-31T14:30:20.963-05:00Let's Frame Something: MeasuringNow that you know a little bit more about the supplies, let's start framing some artwork! You should note, I'll be referring to whatever we're framing as "artwork." That may or may not be accurate. It might just be a free poster you got at the gym or a document proving your restaurant passed its health code inspection. Maybe it's a bunch of family photos you printed from your computer. Whatever it is, the same rules and techniques apply. Okay, let's get started.<br />
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<b>Here's a list of basic supplies you'll need:</b><br />
pencil (to write down your measurements)<br />
ruler<br />
artwork to be framed<br />
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<b>Measuring the Inside (Opening) Dimensions</b><br />
I've created a handy little graphic to aid in explaining this process. Let's start with a little diagram of our mat board. I'll be referencing the letters shown here throughout this tutorial.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR1AdsBW_yHwOY2sucYScbVA4vH8mY-0Vtg4P11hBNWNFDYteB5xptxz1n09AyLmIre0Sxm_4MGUTrPIRtONXR33UDXWP3nSp-oTuzDPqVjx1oxKqpiIc3kjACN2PA1IRPzZ2bqw/s1600/mat-board-diagram300px.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR1AdsBW_yHwOY2sucYScbVA4vH8mY-0Vtg4P11hBNWNFDYteB5xptxz1n09AyLmIre0Sxm_4MGUTrPIRtONXR33UDXWP3nSp-oTuzDPqVjx1oxKqpiIc3kjACN2PA1IRPzZ2bqw/s1600/mat-board-diagram300px.png" /></a></div><br />
First we need to measure our artwork. This will determine how big we need to cut the opening of the mat board (A by B). I realize not everyone has their own mat cutter, but stick with me. Even if you don't cut your own mats, it's still helpful to understand the process. <br />
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You always want to leave <i>at least</i> 1/8 of an inch of extra space on each side of your measurement. For example, if your picture measures 8 inches wide, your measurement for the width of the mat opening should be no more than 7 3/4 inches wide. If the mat opening was cut any wider than that, you would see the edge of your picture and we don't want that! This extra space guarantees your picture extends beyond the mat board opening. There's nothing more frustrating than carefully cutting out a mat and placing it on top of your image only to discover that the opening of the mat is bigger than your image. Bad words! This is why it's so important to follow the old adage of "measure twice, cut once." <br />
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Now let's take a look at the artwork we'll be framing today:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9bC1kUZZWPz6APbSlSBJ0c2DEQAjnASzj3klrIsDmD3kDHxf882hp3uQGFuCP7vd9jKJvGz66graN7caxbNQ1wrdS9gb3lEaPhLGUrnzWM_pkDV8_UiRvxwZ7JtJMEKqrgXqnLQ/s1600/bird.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9bC1kUZZWPz6APbSlSBJ0c2DEQAjnASzj3klrIsDmD3kDHxf882hp3uQGFuCP7vd9jKJvGz66graN7caxbNQ1wrdS9gb3lEaPhLGUrnzWM_pkDV8_UiRvxwZ7JtJMEKqrgXqnLQ/s1600/bird.jpg" /></a></div><br />
You'll notice that there isn't much white space on the left and right of the bird, so our first measurement (A) will have to be very close to the edge. <br />
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Simply hold the ruler over the artwork (being careful not to scuff your artwork) with the left edge of the ruler starting where you want the mat opening to start. Now measure across the piece to where you want the mat opening to end. In this case, 8 5/8 inches. As you can see, there's still a little extra white space beyond our measurement on each side so we're assured the mat opening is smaller than our artwork.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUK8asNC8ucKoA55cS6X8Iq8xyXCB2_gu0Q4eFFC13WC6tpXGxGy3PIBxVRbLP8uhT7YMSjBh4TS5bwrBFRnza-2haVtCw1AgyNc11Y3pzu4wXRJcNst_gp1KdnmaB7QL3u0j8vw/s1600/framing1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUK8asNC8ucKoA55cS6X8Iq8xyXCB2_gu0Q4eFFC13WC6tpXGxGy3PIBxVRbLP8uhT7YMSjBh4TS5bwrBFRnza-2haVtCw1AgyNc11Y3pzu4wXRJcNst_gp1KdnmaB7QL3u0j8vw/s1600/framing1.jpg" /></a></div><br />
Here's a close up:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFS3OB0Vydf_ScegmcyEobCMudzhlCk-acdHhHeUCZzHD7Sb006l-xnJQLvrkV4gkTLQkc5YhX7jkRoQaYXVmcjLbHSdc5vP56OPRUNH5lhKmqM9V7xSVHUvaprW8nlksTucfwQA/s1600/framing1-detail.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFS3OB0Vydf_ScegmcyEobCMudzhlCk-acdHhHeUCZzHD7Sb006l-xnJQLvrkV4gkTLQkc5YhX7jkRoQaYXVmcjLbHSdc5vP56OPRUNH5lhKmqM9V7xSVHUvaprW8nlksTucfwQA/s1600/framing1-detail.jpg" /></a></div><br />
Okay, time to measure our height. Unlike the left and right side of the bird, there's plenty of white space above and below the bird. White space that we don't want to show once the piece is framed. So we need to make the height measurement (B) much shorter than the full height of the picture (Basically we need to leave a lot more than 1/8 of an inch of extra space on either side of our height measurement).<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlW9q9yRekjzm8goNSil8EBUZP8JkcNGmtCUEE1LygvRlnQ8Q3ssYmP1xRWXygx3N5gBqFuZ8071p8dQcMr_XDrxEFrsPSul40ywouKjy6-fQP_NId5thj22I9TDqsxunhx4XslQ/s1600/framing2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlW9q9yRekjzm8goNSil8EBUZP8JkcNGmtCUEE1LygvRlnQ8Q3ssYmP1xRWXygx3N5gBqFuZ8071p8dQcMr_XDrxEFrsPSul40ywouKjy6-fQP_NId5thj22I9TDqsxunhx4XslQ/s1600/framing2.jpg" /></a></div><br />
I realized I could basically make the piece square, so I decided to make the height measurement the same, 8 5/8 inches.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg89lSwWuqGIYmXFKjXVwKTVO95GQoStop2ccy3sw2sRVjBVFykr23KPbA0XfSTideQGajQPODDlfaON1VCd3GsXozU85MRcL-WLOby7TC-sp-M-choW8Uu39z1uaj548irJ72N4g/s1600/framing2-detail.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg89lSwWuqGIYmXFKjXVwKTVO95GQoStop2ccy3sw2sRVjBVFykr23KPbA0XfSTideQGajQPODDlfaON1VCd3GsXozU85MRcL-WLOby7TC-sp-M-choW8Uu39z1uaj548irJ72N4g/s1600/framing2-detail.jpg" /></a></div><br />
Sometimes your artwork has so much extra space beyond the image, that you have to cut off the extra. For example, you may have three inches of extra space extending beyond the mat opening but only a two inch mat (E) all the way around your image. Here's that mat graphic again so you don't have to scroll all the way to the top of the post to see what "E" is referencing.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR1AdsBW_yHwOY2sucYScbVA4vH8mY-0Vtg4P11hBNWNFDYteB5xptxz1n09AyLmIre0Sxm_4MGUTrPIRtONXR33UDXWP3nSp-oTuzDPqVjx1oxKqpiIc3kjACN2PA1IRPzZ2bqw/s1600/mat-board-diagram300px.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR1AdsBW_yHwOY2sucYScbVA4vH8mY-0Vtg4P11hBNWNFDYteB5xptxz1n09AyLmIre0Sxm_4MGUTrPIRtONXR33UDXWP3nSp-oTuzDPqVjx1oxKqpiIc3kjACN2PA1IRPzZ2bqw/s1600/mat-board-diagram300px.png" /></a></div><br />
When you're framing something like a poster, it's usually not a big deal to cut off the extra, but if you're framing a family heirloom, you may want to reconsider and just allow more white space to show within the mat opening, thereby making your overall mat size much larger.<br />
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Okay, we've measured our artwork and determined the size of our mat opening. Now it's time for a little math discussion. That's right, this is the part of the tutorial where I warn you that we are about to start talking about M-A-T-H. Fractions to be exact. This is your one chance to run away, to find a link to click on that will free you from such ludicrous discussions. Of course, if math really scares you that much, you may want to hang around because this might be a good time to brush up on your understanding of fractions. Who would have thought that the way I finally understood fractions (I mean really understood in a meaningful way that was useful in my daily life) was working as a custom framer? I'm sure some of you feel completely comfortable around numbers and don't require my silly little tutorial, but if you've ever caught yourself saying something like, "It's two lines beyond the half inch mark." as you tried to read a ruler, this tutorial is for you. <br />
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<b>Reading a Ruler</b><br />
An inch can be broken up into any number of increments, but the most common increments are halves, quarters, eighths, and sixteenths (and sometimes thirty-seconds). With framing, you want to be as accurate as possible (within reason). Typically that means measuring to the nearest 1/8 of an inch (remember our 8 5/8 inches measurement above?). So if you know you're dealing with 1/8 inch increments, it's easiest to convert everything to eighths. To make this easier to understand, I created a little ruler graphic.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsXL-0VFV5zuAbEXnVcUsHfyQsPl__VdNVnMZXmDGJ0lt2KuzVNp9b_4c9K4IHHaNrQzfh3fn6ZPebM70a42ToYLAIIgI0BaI7OpBnFo2s-SQRekRac4385iHma4r89Rit7vjYIw/s1600/ruler.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsXL-0VFV5zuAbEXnVcUsHfyQsPl__VdNVnMZXmDGJ0lt2KuzVNp9b_4c9K4IHHaNrQzfh3fn6ZPebM70a42ToYLAIIgI0BaI7OpBnFo2s-SQRekRac4385iHma4r89Rit7vjYIw/s1600/ruler.png" /></a></div><br />
You'll notice that I've marked the 1/2 inch mark as "1/2 or 2/4 or 4/8 or 8/16" because 4/8 of an inch is the same as 1/2 an inch. That one is pretty obvious, but what if you're measuring a piece of artwork and your width measurement doesn't fall on the half inch mark? First you need to figure out how detailed your ruler is. Is it showing up to eighths of an inch? Sixteenths? Thirty-seconds? The way to figure this out is to count the number of little lines between the 0 (or the beginning of the ruler if your ruler doesn't have a 0 on it.) and the 1, including the 1. If you count 16, you'll know your ruler is broken up into sixteenths of an inch. If you count 32, you'll know your ruler is broken up into thirty-seconds of an inch, and so on.<br />
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Here's a close up of the ruler with sixteenths marked in red.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUGkhEQDPW-FmUtwc4MuJtZ0616FxRuhJtg0SoP2mwwVZWbmpwpPUcwhpNj3L5zeJlgNEO86l7m4M9Bba9cakWUcTQ685O3ZwmAz7KaXx8QwIdKz9iE4ZAX7qcnQb5ENGeljfISw/s1600/ruler-detail-16ths.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUGkhEQDPW-FmUtwc4MuJtZ0616FxRuhJtg0SoP2mwwVZWbmpwpPUcwhpNj3L5zeJlgNEO86l7m4M9Bba9cakWUcTQ685O3ZwmAz7KaXx8QwIdKz9iE4ZAX7qcnQb5ENGeljfISw/s1600/ruler-detail-16ths.png" /></a></div><br />
Here's eighths marked in red...<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWOptKkTqUJwmeCRhbY5A0Qb06xUSBFwFSicqiMFbWWOb2pcgtrt7dThlFVB5PtgXIxQyVBfl8senlqPNfbaUCWBe3EF4O9f_dJMtsrsNmRI0QhMFyfVoiyGtPUPYAH9lVJf5L6g/s1600/ruler-detail-8ths.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWOptKkTqUJwmeCRhbY5A0Qb06xUSBFwFSicqiMFbWWOb2pcgtrt7dThlFVB5PtgXIxQyVBfl8senlqPNfbaUCWBe3EF4O9f_dJMtsrsNmRI0QhMFyfVoiyGtPUPYAH9lVJf5L6g/s1600/ruler-detail-8ths.png" /></a></div><br />
and quarters (fourths) marked in red.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMoUz9jFLYJEr9ftF5VpDS8sbfYusMeJyx5se2uHrhpDHz6sn-8Bo5uGAAWkcux-Eham8oS1lzNm6xjyJMVQdaZRQgEAUbzuGV7pdlr7lnyOPEmLKKNdT5Uz427wiI7Wt7tt7-nw/s1600/ruler-detail-4ths.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMoUz9jFLYJEr9ftF5VpDS8sbfYusMeJyx5se2uHrhpDHz6sn-8Bo5uGAAWkcux-Eham8oS1lzNm6xjyJMVQdaZRQgEAUbzuGV7pdlr7lnyOPEmLKKNdT5Uz427wiI7Wt7tt7-nw/s1600/ruler-detail-4ths.png" /></a></div><br />
As I mentioned before, our goal is typically to measure our artwork to the closest eighth of an inch, so start to think of 1/2 of an inch as 4/8 of an inch; and 1/4 of an inch as 2/8 of an inch. Once you start thinking of all measurements in eighths, it will become much easier to measure your artwork to the nearest eighth of an inch. I hope this ruler discussion was helpful and not just overly simplified (or wordy and complicated!). Leave me a comment if you need anything clarified.<br />
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<b>Measuring the Outside Dimensions (for Mat and Frame)</b><br />
Now that we know the size of our mat opening (A by B), we need to determine how big to make the outside of the mat (C by D) and the frame (also C by D). Our mat opening is 8 5/8 inches wide (A) by 8 5/8 inches high (B). The standard mat is usually about 2 inches on each side of the artwork (E), but I decided to make mine just a hair larger at 2 1/2 inches. So we need to add 2 1/2 inches on the left side of the opening and 2 1/2 inches on the right side of the opening for a total of 5 inches. This means we are adding 5 inches to the width and 5 inches to the height. So our total outside measurement of the mat (also the frame) is 13 5/8 inches wide (C) by 13 5/8 inches high (D) (8 5/8 + 5 = 13 5/8). I told you there would be fractions.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiiE7mm00KQMYw9zyjxKmWhCVKjxvlb7emQhU5g3xoHsZ655kRxZf5Gp8qZgLIyoXKZqa5Erh14VWNyHb_YP6gP23kPWxHi0yOn5zCIEUKxYwrKWxIal-eCujgoZ-IxhaQMTawRA/s1600/mat-board-diagramMeasurements.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiiE7mm00KQMYw9zyjxKmWhCVKjxvlb7emQhU5g3xoHsZ655kRxZf5Gp8qZgLIyoXKZqa5Erh14VWNyHb_YP6gP23kPWxHi0yOn5zCIEUKxYwrKWxIal-eCujgoZ-IxhaQMTawRA/s1600/mat-board-diagramMeasurements.png" /></a></div><br />
Stop by tomorrow when I will show you how to cut the mat we just took so many pains to measure properly.Jill Jenningshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01305177376856047686noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23247591.post-30693076840828254662012-01-30T08:56:00.004-05:002012-01-30T08:56:00.171-05:00Let's Frame Something: SuppliesI'm finally getting around to framing the purple finch my cousin painted for me (I wrote about it <a href="http://fiercegirldesign.blogspot.com/2011/09/bird-for-skirt.html">here</a>.), and I thought it might be useful if I did a tutorial of the process. So I'm going to spend this week sharing some framing tips and tricks. <br />
<br />
I've been doing all my own picture framing since I was in college and got a summer job working at a framing studio. Most summer jobs serve one purpose. Money. They're annoying and highly motivating at keeping you in school because you don't want to be cleaning toilets for the rest of your life. But the skills I acquired working as a custom framer have actually proven to be really useful throughout my life. By doing my own framing, I've been able to save tons of money, while still achieving a custom look. I hope the information I share this week will give you the courage and knowledge you need to frame something yourself. Let's get started!<br />
<br />
Before we start the process of actually framing something, I'm going to discuss the supplies you'll need. Today I'm going to talk about mat board, backing board, and glass (glazing); available varieties of each; and where to buy them.<br />
<br />
<b>CATEGORIES OF MAT BOARD</b><br />
There are several available options when it comes to selecting mat board, but all mat board falls into one of two broad categories: acidic, or non-acidic (acid-free). It's important to consider the quality of your mat board because it will make a difference in the long-term "health" of your framed artwork.<br />
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<i><b>Standard</b></i> - Made of wood pulp (lignin). You can tell a mat board is acidic if the white core has yellowed or turned brown. This type of mat board is not recommended.<br />
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<i><b>Acid-Free</b></i> - While most standard mat board is acid-free, over time it will eventually become acidic again because the acid isn't removed, it's just temporarily neutralized. Recommended for posters or anything that doesn't hold a major sentimental value or require conservation-level preservation.<br />
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<i><b>100% Rag</b></i> - Conservation-level mat board. Made of 100% cotton (so the color goes all the way through the board) and is free of lignin (wood pulp) and any other acid-causing agents.<br />
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<i><b>100% Alpha Cellulose</b></i> - Conservation-level mat board. Made from wood pulp that has been essentially pulverized. Unlike standard mat board, the lignin has been removed, making it acid-free.<br />
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For more info on mat board, you can visit Alto's website <a href="http://www.altosezmat.com/testimonials/articles/conservation.htm" target="_blank">here</a>.<br />
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<b>BUYING MAT BOARD</b><br />
You can find full sheets of mat board (typically 32 x 40 inches) at most craft and art supply stores as well as custom frame shops. Unfortunately, they usually offer a limited color selection. Happily, some stores will order you a full sheet (from their full line of colors) when they place their weekly orders, which is a great option as long as you can wait the two weeks for the mat to arrive. If you're really lucky, you might find a frame shop that offers full sheets of all their mat board colors AND previously-cut mat remnants for a reduced price. You'll know you've stumbled upon something awesome because the heavens will open up and light will gently stream down upon you and a choir of angels will start singing and... what were we talking about? Oh yeah, mat board. Anyway, you can also order mat board online, but they usually make you buy in bulk (typically a minimum of 10 sheets), so this may not be cost effective.<br />
<br />
<b>CATEGORIES OF BACKING BOARD</b><br />
Backing board is very similar to mat board in that it comes in acid and acid-free versions and the same considerations apply when selecting your backing.<br />
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<i><b>Cardboard</b></i> - Basic option (often free!). Acidic so not recommended for conservation work or any artwork that has a sentimental or high monitary value. It's fairly easy to cut with a sharp X-acto knife.<br />
<br />
<i><b>Regular Foam Core</b></i> - This is NOT acid-free, but it's still a good quality backing. Consists of a layer of foam wedged between two layers of paper. It's more ridged than card board and offers some moisture protection as well. It's easy to cut with a sharp X-acto knife. Perfect for most framing projects. Gives a neat, clean look to the back of your frame.<br />
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<i><b>Acid-Free Foam Core</b></i> - Same as regular foam core but with improved long-term performance because it is acid-free. A must for conservation work.<br />
<br />
<b>BUYING BACKING BOARD</b><br />
You can find full sheets of cardboard and foam core in a variety of sizes at most craft and art supply stores as well as custom frame shops and online.<br />
<br />
If you're using cardboard as your backing, you can simply cut a piece from an old box. Nothing like free backing board to reduce the cost of your framing project! Just remember it's acidic (as is regular foam core), so it won't protect precious artwork over the long haul. It may take a long time, but your artwork will eventually yellow.<br />
<br />
<b>CATEGORIES OF GLASS</b><br />
Glass ("glazing") is also available in a range of options. <br />
<br />
<i><b>Standard</b></i> - Most common option. Offers a clear finish. Good option for many framing situations, especially digital photos that can be easily reprinted (they will fade over time) and inexpensive posters. I use standard glass for all my framing projects (including artwork), but if you have a very special piece and it hangs in direct sunlight, you may want to consider using UV-Blocking glass (listed below).<br />
<br />
<i><b>Non-Glare</b></i> - More expensive than standard glass because it offers a special finish that reduces glare. Good option for same situations listed above. Not recommended for shadow boxes or double-matted artwork because the special coating on the glass causes some distortion and reduces clarity when space is incresed between it and the artwork.<br />
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<i><b>A Note About Non-Glare Glass:</b></i><br />
Back when I was working as a custom framer, we offered a type of glass that had a hazy coating on top of it. It was like a really subtle version of that film some people put on their bathroom windows or back doors. It lets the light in but blurs the glass so you can't really see anything through it. You know the stuff I'm talking about. Anyway, non-glare was more expensive than standard glass and was designed to remove a lot of the glare caused by sunshine streaming into your living room and right onto your picture, therefore making it IMPOSSIBLE to see! The nerve of that sun! I used to think non-glare was superior to standard glass, but over time I began to realize that along with its ability to remove glare it also removed all the contrast and clarity of the framed piece. So you'll never catch me using any non-glare glass on my pictures. I like the sun. And I like the glare. Because I like the contrast and clarity in my pictures. Besides, if I can't see my pictures from sun glare, I can always take a step to the right or the left or hang the picture where the sun can't find it.<br />
<br />
<i><b>UV-Blocking</b></i> - Over time, the UV rays of the sun can fade and damage your artwork. If this is a concern, particularly if you are framing something really valuable or sentimental, you should use UV-blocking glass. It comes in both clear and non-glare versions. Bet you know which one I recommend.<br />
<br />
<i><b>Acrylic Glazing (Plexiglass)</b></i> - Available in the same categories above (standard, non-glare, UV-blocking)<br />
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<b>BUYING GLASS</b><br />
The same frame shops that offer full sheets of mat board also sell glass and/or acrylic (plexiglass). Most frame shops will custom cut a piece of glass to your measurements, but you can get the same glass (usually for much less) at a custom glass shop. The same places that sell windows and shower doors usually also sell picture frame glass (often plexiglass too) and will often cut if for you while you wait. Just call up the shop in question and ask if they cut picture frame glass. They'll let you know what they offer.<br />
<br />
Of course, you can also order glass and acrylic online and have it custom cut to your measurements or buy it in bulk in standard sizes.<br />
<br />
<i><b>A Note About Acrylic Glazing (Plexiglass)</b></i><br />
- Make sure you buy acrylic and NOT polycarbonate, which yellows over time.<br />
<br />
- It scrates very easily and requires special cleaners. If you wipe it with Windex and a paper towel, it will scratch.<br />
<br />
- It comes with a protective plastic covering on both sides that you peel off right before you put it in the frame (no cleaning required, if you do it right.).<br />
<br />
- Typically available in sizes ranging from 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch. Don't buy anything less than 1/16 of an inch as it will be very flimsy and may warp and therefore distort your artwork.<br />
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Okay, that just about wraps it up. I'll be back tomorrow with tips on how to measure your own custom mat. Be sure to check out the resources I've listed below. Also, feel free to ask any questions in the comments section.<br />
<br />
<b>Online resources for custom framing supplies:</b><br />
<a href="http://www.pictureframes.com/scripts/WebObjects/PictureFrames.woa/wa/Home" target="_blank">Graphic Dimensions</a> (where I order most of my framing supplies)<br />
<a href="http://www.framingsupplies.com/FramingSupplies.htm" target="_blank">Framing Supplies</a> (never ordered from them, but they have a lot of helpful product info)<br />
<a href="http://www.unitedmfrscatalog.com/home/index.htm" target="_blank">United Mfrs. Supplies, Inc.</a> (never ordered from them, but they have a great selection of archival tape and foam core)Jill Jenningshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01305177376856047686noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23247591.post-31070055740165853772012-01-26T08:21:00.001-05:002012-01-26T08:21:00.939-05:00Goals UpdateSo you may be wondering how I'm doing with my list of goals for 2012. Or maybe not, but I'm gonna tell you anyway. Here's where I stand:<br />
<br />
1. Finish knitting the wrap sweater I started 3 or 4 years ago.<br />
2. Photograph the collection of childhood sweaters my Nana crocheted for me as a kid.<br />
3. Create 5 free printables for blog.<br />
4. Use up entire stack of printmaking paper.<br />
5. Make a linocut you're really proud of (this will aid in accomplishing item #4).<br />
6. Read a book.<br />
7. Send some of your food photos to a magazine and see if they will print them.<br />
8. Make a spring wreath out of crepe paper.<br />
9. Design a website pro bono. <b><i>working on this one.</i></b><br />
10. <strike>Find a new recipe and make it.</strike> <b><i>Done! I actually made TWO recipes. Check them out <a href="http://www.shutterbean.com/nutstuffed-delicata-squash/" target="_blank">here</a> and <a href="http://theflourbag.wordpress.com/2012/01/13/date-raisin-apricot-cookies/" target="_blank">here</a>.</i></b><br />
11. Sew a shirt.<br />
12. Frame a piece of artwork. <b><i>working on this one.</i></b>Jill Jenningshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01305177376856047686noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23247591.post-52276979035520478742012-01-05T13:04:00.000-05:002012-01-05T13:04:00.659-05:00It's about time: 12 goals for 2012I've been planning this blog post for weeks! It seems like one thing after another kept taking precedence. But enough excuses. This is a new year with new opportunities and endless possibilities. I just love the "fresh-start" feeling the new year brings. <br />
<br />
In that spirit, I've set some goals for myself. I figured 12 goals for 2012 had a nice ring to it. So here's my list of 12 things I hope to accomplish in 2012:<br />
<br />
1. Finish knitting the wrap sweater I started 3 or 4 years ago.<br />
2. Photograph the collection of childhood sweaters my Nana crocheted for me as a kid.<br />
3. Create 5 free printables for blog.<br />
4. Use up entire stack of printmaking paper.<br />
5. Make a linocut you're really proud of (this will aid in accomplishing item #4).<br />
6. Read a book.<br />
7. Send some of your food photos to a magazine and see if they will print them.<br />
8. Make a spring wreath out of crepe paper.<br />
9. Design a website pro bono.<br />
10. Find a new recipe and make it.<br />
11. Sew a shirt.<br />
12. Frame a piece of artwork.<br />
<br />
I'll check things off as I go. Stay tuned.Jill Jenningshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01305177376856047686noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23247591.post-23509420960000735992011-12-12T14:30:00.000-05:002011-12-12T14:30:15.998-05:00A Longwood Gardens Christmas with HipstamaticLast Thursday evening, Zach and I drove down to Kennett Square to check out this year's Christmas displays at Longwood Gardens. It was magical, as always.<br />
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Here's some shots I took with my iPhone using the Hipstamatic app:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOR5BmOatWs582qO894dbPARenuNCMp7g4MoHl1w5RGb_RpaFbN8VMjKa6fxTmFJCdD_K1WsOguAU8uKziAF5df-zW9g7tgfF_M0ie3q6kihhWFr_kYUVyxjqPpaR-gM9UCyEj4g/s1600/LongwoodHipsta7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOR5BmOatWs582qO894dbPARenuNCMp7g4MoHl1w5RGb_RpaFbN8VMjKa6fxTmFJCdD_K1WsOguAU8uKziAF5df-zW9g7tgfF_M0ie3q6kihhWFr_kYUVyxjqPpaR-gM9UCyEj4g/s1600/LongwoodHipsta7.jpg" /></a></div>Jill Jenningshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01305177376856047686noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23247591.post-4132061498587620772011-12-09T10:22:00.001-05:002011-12-09T10:23:48.343-05:00Around the Table: Pumpkin Parfait<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrwmT5tagwmEzXMcGg2J9wgG9MduYyP4RQwiF-9Y2nw9LXxPEvDxb2-liXaXtD-oIQraiaqt0j_27D9bFCdqfNATRefeqxUS5Pybm01kdg-oywB78XDldlB4isOeqOFKMynbNFtA/s1600/photo.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrwmT5tagwmEzXMcGg2J9wgG9MduYyP4RQwiF-9Y2nw9LXxPEvDxb2-liXaXtD-oIQraiaqt0j_27D9bFCdqfNATRefeqxUS5Pybm01kdg-oywB78XDldlB4isOeqOFKMynbNFtA/s1600/photo.JPG" /></a></div><br />
I made these pumpkin parfaits (recipe from Simply Organic) the other night. The pumpkin puree was a little bitter, so I definitely had to add all the sugar (I usually cut sugar amounts in half when baking). This would also be a great addition to your kids' lunches (or your own!). Just package the puree and yogurt layered together in a sealable container and add the granola when ready to eat. Here's the recipe:<br />
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10 minute prep time<br />
Serves 2 (I doubled it to make 4 parfaits)<br />
<br />
1/2 c pumpkin puree<br />
1/4 tsp ground cinnamon<br />
1/8 tsp ground nutmeg<br />
1/4 tsp vanilla extract<br />
1 1/2 tsp milk (I used almond milk)<br />
2 tsp sugar (possibly more - I can't believe I'm saying this)<br />
6 oz low-fat vanilla yogurt<br />
1/4 c granola<br />
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In a small bowl, stir together pumpkin puree, cinnamon, nutmeg, vanilla, milk, and sugar. In parfait glasses or ramekins, layer the pumpkin mixture and yogurt. Sprinkle with granola.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKd-fivR_Gbj1wJBrvvGzGUzqgQX9rS_nHfay0nq7eq0Xs1C2rJGousNirfLY8SahC81jBHO-WKqdcoDKQX4U3jpBMfv2C9ya7LbfmHQdxFewFXVYX2g86pNVcNNI_wiu6WBxF-Q/s1600/photo2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKd-fivR_Gbj1wJBrvvGzGUzqgQX9rS_nHfay0nq7eq0Xs1C2rJGousNirfLY8SahC81jBHO-WKqdcoDKQX4U3jpBMfv2C9ya7LbfmHQdxFewFXVYX2g86pNVcNNI_wiu6WBxF-Q/s1600/photo2.JPG" /></a></div>Jill Jenningshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01305177376856047686noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23247591.post-29620687316088335102011-12-05T11:28:00.004-05:002011-12-05T11:33:58.039-05:00Show Me Your LOMOThere's been a major surge in the popularity of old <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Instamatic" target="_blank">Instamatic</a>-type cameras originally designed by Kodak and made popular in the 60s and 70s. A lot of people from my generation seem to be rather nostalgic right now, me included, and we just can't get enough vignetting or solar haze. Happily, there are a plethora of apps, like <a href="http://hipstamatic.com/the_app.html" target="_blank">Hipstamatic</a> and <a href="http://instagr.am/" target="_blank">Instagram</a> for the iPhone that allow you to simulate the qualities produced by many of these retro cameras. If you want to take it one step further, you can buy reproductions of some of these cameras (<a href="http://www.lomography.com/about/microsites" target="_blank">here</a> and <a href="http://photojojo.com/store/" target="_blank">here</a> are two good places to start.), like the <a href="http://camerapedia.wikia.com/wiki/LOMO_LC-A" target="_blank">LOMO LC-A</a>, a camera so popular it inspired the creation of an entire <a href="http://www.lomography.com/" target="_blank">society</a>! <br />
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Produced by LOMO PLC in St. Petersburg, Russia starting in 1984, the LC-A produced strongly vignetted images in vivid colors reminiscent of the way Technicolor made everything pop in the movies. Supposedly, back in the 90s, a bunch of people got really excited about the fixed-lens camera, and it has enjoyed a cult following that still carries on today. People just couldn't resist all that vignetting and super-saturated color! <br />
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Of course, if you don't have an iPhone or you're not nostalgic enough to drop 225 beans (or more) for a repro, fear not, you can create similar LOMO effects with some photo-editing software, like Photoshop. I stumbled upon <a href="http://www.digital-photography-school.com/how-to-make-digital-photos-look-like-lomo-photography" target="_blank">this tutorial</a> a few weeks ago and thought it was pretty helpful, so instead of recreating the wheel, I'm just gonna give you the link.<br />
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Here's what I ended up with:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXWAP5nHrWU5jjUjBg7qBfd0w9X53od9r1acxAL88BomnCoSW2HMSkGdTZlz8ITjae9XRT-sGwEOT_y9gHBS-tCJ08wtfS1o9WC-8SiaGSouNtPBtaSVmj7KNlXo5NMNe1w_DLJA/s1600/DSC_3886Lomo.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXWAP5nHrWU5jjUjBg7qBfd0w9X53od9r1acxAL88BomnCoSW2HMSkGdTZlz8ITjae9XRT-sGwEOT_y9gHBS-tCJ08wtfS1o9WC-8SiaGSouNtPBtaSVmj7KNlXo5NMNe1w_DLJA/s1600/DSC_3886Lomo.png" /></a></div><br />
If any of you try this tutorial with one of your photos, I'd love to see it. leave a link to it in the comments. Happy LOMO-ing!Jill Jenningshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01305177376856047686noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23247591.post-7103342368498866382011-12-03T09:28:00.001-05:002011-12-03T09:29:39.944-05:00The Season of AdventAs anyone who has ever worked in retail knows, Christmas has become rather commercialized. Heck, even if you haven't worked in retail you know this. I'm always trying to escape the commercialism and focus on the hope and peace of Christmas, which is one of the reasons I love Advent so much. <br />
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The word <i>Advent</i> comes from the Latin word <i>adventus</i> meaning "coming." It's the time of year Christians wait in hopeful expectation for the coming of the Christ Child. <br />
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As a kid, my church always celebrated Advent. It traditionally starts four Sundays before Christmas day culminating with a special Christmas eve service. It always felt sort of magical to me when, at the end of the evening service, we sang <i>Silent Night</i> with only the light from our candles to illuminate the hymnals. There's such a peace and stillness produced by candle light. <br />
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The celebration of Advent involves a lot of symbolism. It starts with "the hanging of the greens" where evergreens of different shapes are hung at the front of the church symbolizing everlasting life through Jesus Christ. Purple, sometimes royal blue, is the color of Advent. It represents royalty as well as penitence and fasting. But the most notable and meaningful part of Advent for me has to be the Advent wreath: an evergreen wreath holding four tall taper candles, one pink the other three purple. In the center of the wreath is a large white candle, the Christ candle. Each week one of the four colored candles is lit culminating with the lighting of the Christ candle on Christmas eve.<br />
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Although there are variations in meaning depending on the church or denomination, each candle is typically represented as follows:<br />
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First Sunday: Hope (1st purple candle)<br />
Second Sunday: Peace (2nd purple candle)<br />
Third Sunday: Joy (pink candle)<br />
Fourth Sunday: Love (3rd purple candle)<br />
Christmas Eve: Christ Candle (center white candle)<br />
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Today I thought it would be nice to show you how to make your own Advent wreath that you can light at home as you celebrate the coming of the Christ Child.<br />
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You will need...<br />
- fresh pine bows or other evergreens (you can get these at many home improvement stores and Christmas tree farms, or your back yard - FREE!)<br />
- a pair of pruning shears (or something that will cut the branches)<br />
- floral tape<br />
- floral wire<br />
- a pack of Advent candles (available at most craft stores and online as well.)<br />
- a white pillar candle<br />
- 4 candle holders<br />
- a small circular tray<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg73KaxKtAn3DfVG_0WhOea1FObvLAr_cdW3F0fZVejpAdbBN1x_PwhUgSIJQ-98fV88PqGQOKbEYDATqoCy7ImYnsed6vpIeCF5O42NjGDcI3PZkH9N_WtexMiH0EXV1noFC6jkw/s1600/DSC_4339.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg73KaxKtAn3DfVG_0WhOea1FObvLAr_cdW3F0fZVejpAdbBN1x_PwhUgSIJQ-98fV88PqGQOKbEYDATqoCy7ImYnsed6vpIeCF5O42NjGDcI3PZkH9N_WtexMiH0EXV1noFC6jkw/s1600/DSC_4339.jpg" /></a></div><br />
Start by clipping small, four-to-six inch sprigs of evergreen.<br />
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Bind several together with floral tape to make a slightly larger sprig.<br />
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As you're making the taped sprig bundles, lay them around your tray to estimate how many you'll need. Once you have enough sprigs, you'll need to bind them together to make the wreath. <br />
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At this point, you may be asking, "Why no wreath form?"<br />
You can use a wreath form if you prefer, but I like to just bind the sprigs to each other because I find it makes a less bulky wreath. It also means you can use whatever size tray you want (or have on hand). If you use a wreath form, you'll be limited to only a few specific sizes and will have to find a tray that matches in size. Of course, it's totally up to you.<br />
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You'll notice that each sprig bundle sort of has a flatter side based on how your taped them together. They sort of want to fan out a little. You want to bind them together so the flat side is resting on the tray. Grab a couple shoots from each sprig and bind them with wire to the taped section of the bundle below. <br />
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You always want to lay your next sprig bundle on top of the taped section of bundle of the previous wired bundle. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq9j3amWC6iu5XpXbZ7GYpzxrEeGOllMtoS-IQmeUUHfa-o10HtSk-3wvBgzasO949akaOKJUDZ1QDnt2TJiZvjHKxWHVMKx3vtrbE-3kn93jn7iNfrDLpK5z3mTlVkdthNq_gaQ/s1600/DSC_4356.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq9j3amWC6iu5XpXbZ7GYpzxrEeGOllMtoS-IQmeUUHfa-o10HtSk-3wvBgzasO949akaOKJUDZ1QDnt2TJiZvjHKxWHVMKx3vtrbE-3kn93jn7iNfrDLpK5z3mTlVkdthNq_gaQ/s1600/DSC_4356.jpg" /></a></div><br />
Once you get them all wired together, your wreath should look like this. You may want to trim any extra long sprigs from the wreath to tidy it up and make it look neater.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTPDaPJFPFJbsrEcVNj83g1uunA-GUHG2FUf26DKzPapcV4fm69kZTpbZ2-zgqiIC0Og22X3UjS4dC5W4-HEL49pW6kOJSoB74zDLa0-YQYUSecaoaG5A4FRg7sD5w2kYeAMDtTg/s1600/DSC_4359.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTPDaPJFPFJbsrEcVNj83g1uunA-GUHG2FUf26DKzPapcV4fm69kZTpbZ2-zgqiIC0Og22X3UjS4dC5W4-HEL49pW6kOJSoB74zDLa0-YQYUSecaoaG5A4FRg7sD5w2kYeAMDtTg/s1600/DSC_4359.jpg" /></a></div><br />
Now it's time to add the candle holders and candles. At this point, I realized my candle holders didn't fit on my tray, so I had to dig up another tray (hence the switch from silver tray to white tray) that would accommodate them. Lesson learned?...Make sure you place all your candle holders plus the pillar candle on your tray <i>before</i> you start, so you know they fit. Thankfully I had a larger tray on hand that worked.<br />
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Here's the final wreath with candles.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKWl04pzReiEj_QvRNIigtw3LIan5yN5ROAQVBQsDuxYJhuR_gs36tdweftpg7AZgSyb8NS_7jbEdi5Bl2pWOhhgzhG4Ht-q9s8qKpZeFzLcmKoAafBLPQJvQOse4Ech5qT2sYpA/s1600/DSC_4363.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKWl04pzReiEj_QvRNIigtw3LIan5yN5ROAQVBQsDuxYJhuR_gs36tdweftpg7AZgSyb8NS_7jbEdi5Bl2pWOhhgzhG4Ht-q9s8qKpZeFzLcmKoAafBLPQJvQOse4Ech5qT2sYpA/s1600/DSC_4363.jpg" /></a></div><br />
I realize we're heading into the second week of Advent tomorrow, so this tutorial is a bit late. If you do decide to make a wreath, I'd love to hear about it! It's never too late to start a new tradition! Anyone have any special Advent traditions? Please share them in the comments.<br />
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You can learn more about the season of Advent <a href="http://www.crivoice.org/cyadvent.html#Spirit%20of%20Advent" target="_blank">here</a>.Jill Jenningshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01305177376856047686noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23247591.post-91965117190392306262011-11-29T14:43:00.003-05:002011-11-29T14:47:43.131-05:00Things that make you hum<b>I was searching around Spotify for music and stumbled upon this new Christmas song by Sara Bareilles. It's a lovely song with a simple message - one we all know but easily forget.<br />
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"Love Is Christmas"</b><br />
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I don’t care if the house is packed,<br />
Or the strings of light are broken.<br />
I don’t care if the gifts are wrapped,<br />
Or there’s nothing here to open.<br />
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Love is not a toy, and no paper will conceal it.<br />
Love is simply joy that I’m home.<br />
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I don’t care if the carpet's stained; we've got food upon our table.<br />
I don’t care if it’s gonna rain, our little room is warm and stable.<br />
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Love is who we are, and no season can contain it.<br />
Love would never fall for that.<br />
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Let love lead us, love is Christmas.<br />
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Why so scared that you’ll mess it up? Imperfection keeps you haunted.<br />
All you need is your best my love, that’s all anyone ever wanted.<br />
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Love is how we do, let no judgment overrule it.<br />
Love I look to you, and I sing.<br />
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Let love lead us, love is Christmas.<br />
Let love lead us, love is Christmas.Jill Jenningshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01305177376856047686noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23247591.post-21693286426892722292011-11-01T11:30:00.001-04:002012-01-14T16:48:55.146-05:00Repurpose Cereal Containers<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1964atIV14_2MLKktk3I86epH2LX2A9sDHK6r1hjz8pYC_1nAnTEK5KNXxskIW7ZJzgJfRhNQHgUv5WMJIyts-9UWnm7pBkKqkYPsSeatvs-_nHIrViJezsQjImPBu8R_t-TGMA/s1600/DSC_3935.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1964atIV14_2MLKktk3I86epH2LX2A9sDHK6r1hjz8pYC_1nAnTEK5KNXxskIW7ZJzgJfRhNQHgUv5WMJIyts-9UWnm7pBkKqkYPsSeatvs-_nHIrViJezsQjImPBu8R_t-TGMA/s1600/DSC_3935.jpg" /></a></div><br />
My Mom has sent Zach and I several containers of cereal by a company called Me & Gogi (now out-of-business). They come in tall cylinders perfect for repurposing once the cereal is gone. If your cereal comes in a box, don't worry. There are lots of things that do come in cylinders like some brands of tea and coffee, oatmeal (A.K.A "rolled oats") etc. Next time you finish your cylinder of whatever, don't throw it out. Repurpose it into a cool container you can use to store just about anything...pens, pencils, paintbrushes, extra cotton balls. Heck you could even use it for more cereal or oatmeal, but now you can leave the container on the counter 'cause it looks so cool and modern. Okay, enough babbling. Here's the how-to:<br />
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I had an old atlas lying around, so I selected some maps from places that are significant to Zach and me. But you could use any decorative paper you want. <br />
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Measure the height of your container. If yours has metal rims on top and bottom (like mine do), measure between those metal rims. Wrap your paper around the container and make a small pencil mark about an eight of an inch beyond where the paper meets. This will give you a slight overlap so your container looks neat and clean and none of the container shows from underneath. Trim your height (from that measurement you just made) and width (based on the pencil mark) with an X-acto knife and ruler on a cutting mat (or scissors if that's all you have). <br />
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Apply double-sided tape to the wrong side of your paper on all four edges. Make sure you get the tape right to the edge so your paper doesn't curl up or pull away from the container. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5gD63SyNA9cJXW3YJGhHxyQJD1Z4pGZKZVhYup5hOXqueCIth6LVbop3TNBs-ll63odlZFOnj9mhD3f97l8F3UiElv7AlBslLwh0avAUGCICEJiA9ptOPKYXhSoBvpR-kWsET6Q/s1600/DSC_3942.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5gD63SyNA9cJXW3YJGhHxyQJD1Z4pGZKZVhYup5hOXqueCIth6LVbop3TNBs-ll63odlZFOnj9mhD3f97l8F3UiElv7AlBslLwh0avAUGCICEJiA9ptOPKYXhSoBvpR-kWsET6Q/s1600/DSC_3942.jpg" /></a></div><br />
Line up the top edge of your paper with the top edge of your container (right underneath the metal band in my case) and gently start wrapping the paper around the cylinder making sure to keep it aligned with the top edge as you wrap. Lightly press down the rest of the paper as you go until you have wrapped the entire container. Your paper should line up on the top and bottom and have a small eighth-inch overlap from top to bottom. Once you're happy with how the paper is applied, firmly press it down all over the container. And presto! You've got a lovely, repurposed container perfect for storing all those things you need but don't necessarily want to look at.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSH5akDxHqgRuIb56p8n5QDNFAzALQNA7yCAvpNovAZTXdnn3x5HNo4nSpX0c7Rc9-J6CBY3X5PuoSYTl-4w2McjD0KXPdKuCWleVawRHJ1KbdKup0hM13lqYLJViokej4j2YXcA/s1600/DSC_3948.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSH5akDxHqgRuIb56p8n5QDNFAzALQNA7yCAvpNovAZTXdnn3x5HNo4nSpX0c7Rc9-J6CBY3X5PuoSYTl-4w2McjD0KXPdKuCWleVawRHJ1KbdKup0hM13lqYLJViokej4j2YXcA/s1600/DSC_3948.jpg" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNH6eH_wYdKe0FJdIU0m832jEWUpqdLo2cN5mdpLwTjs1-pgVO4omCoBONUW6dTK2CDLuMVtB6DJrhHkEwXJFQH1rRRzy7HBWf51EC6rL50wwLpT-yn5lcFfjd2K6hQkNzM8u96g/s1600/DSC_3950.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNH6eH_wYdKe0FJdIU0m832jEWUpqdLo2cN5mdpLwTjs1-pgVO4omCoBONUW6dTK2CDLuMVtB6DJrhHkEwXJFQH1rRRzy7HBWf51EC6rL50wwLpT-yn5lcFfjd2K6hQkNzM8u96g/s1600/DSC_3950.jpg" /></a></div>Jill Jenningshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01305177376856047686noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23247591.post-2366186838515847012011-10-31T09:00:00.003-04:002011-10-31T09:00:01.251-04:00Handmade Portraits: Rob RyanI watched this lovely little Etsy video over the weekend (found via <a href="http://alittlehut.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">A Little Hut</a>). Rob's exquisite work conveys a genuineness that is rarely seen.<br />
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<iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/30265328?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0" width="400" height="225" frameborder="0" webkitAllowFullScreen allowFullScreen></iframe><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/30265328">Handmade Portraits: Rob Ryan</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/etsy">Etsy</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>Jill Jenningshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01305177376856047686noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23247591.post-19986390507874129142011-10-28T09:13:00.048-04:002011-10-28T09:13:00.099-04:00At Home: Changing It UpSurprise! The master bedroom is now the office and the office is now the master bedroom. Bet you didn't see that one coming. I barely saw it coming. The thing is, the master bedroom is the largest of the three bedrooms in our home. One of the other two bedrooms serves as our office and the third one serves as a guest bedroom. The room we were using as our office only measures about eight feet by eleven feet, which is pretty small. Scratch that. VERY small. This meant that a lot of office-related furniture started spilling over into our bedroom. Zach suggested we swap our bedroom with our office so we would have more space. I thought it made sense. So we did it.<br />
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<b>Here's how it all went down</b><br />
We moved all our office crap, minus the furniture, into our guest bedroom.<br />
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We moved some of the office furniture into what would become the new office.<br />
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Then the room looked like this (note the hideous blue rug):<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbLlhcIatDRTxJ0d7i5runthw-HoIsZBSn8_VOd7zPgQll_RP-uf0QyRwPeV7xOoKg_zO6tT8Dbnik3zNsBDYz74it4Mb3_Lhw4XdFYILixK78oL7VlQeP5HfeUvaU8ZpvtgWYqQ/s1600/DSC_3504.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbLlhcIatDRTxJ0d7i5runthw-HoIsZBSn8_VOd7zPgQll_RP-uf0QyRwPeV7xOoKg_zO6tT8Dbnik3zNsBDYz74it4Mb3_Lhw4XdFYILixK78oL7VlQeP5HfeUvaU8ZpvtgWYqQ/s1600/DSC_3504.jpg" /></a></div><br />
We left the rest of the office furniture in the old office for me to trip over and walk into while I painted that room in preparation for it to become our new bedroom. I didn't want to spend more money on paint when I already had a million gallons leftover from other painting projects. I'm exaggerating. I probably only have about nine-hundred thousand leftover gallons. To avoid adding yet another partially-used gallon of paint to the mix, I did just that - mixed. That's right. I mixed about three different paints together. I found a whole gallon of a creamy white paint left by the previous owners and I added a bit of teal and black to it, to get a bluish-grey color.<br />
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After I finished painting, we moved some more furniture and waited for the nasty paint smell to dissipate so we could move our bed into our "new" bedroom.<br />
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While I was waiting, I hung some curtains, centered the rug, and vacuumed.<br />
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<b>A few days later...</b><br />
At this point we got tired of waiting for the paint smell to completely dissipate, so we disassembled the bed in our old bedroom (the new office) and reassembled it in our new bedroom (the old office).<br />
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And now our bedroom looks like this:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1wYUiA9ouY-1PXEiM2F0kjkAZQ49p9bOQvtRHjPDjakF5xYJZXyRLql1hmIcZ1rbVI-i37IV1LbaxXXrMzpxCLKC1UAkn_cAr9enG_4T-_ERHyYUSwHjTggkZVlYTafBFuDzTHA/s1600/DSC_3920.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1wYUiA9ouY-1PXEiM2F0kjkAZQ49p9bOQvtRHjPDjakF5xYJZXyRLql1hmIcZ1rbVI-i37IV1LbaxXXrMzpxCLKC1UAkn_cAr9enG_4T-_ERHyYUSwHjTggkZVlYTafBFuDzTHA/s1600/DSC_3920.jpg" /></a></div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxmeoN_H1KCpIhiFqOPX5sj0w3RBxexJZsmNHxp4RMDN84dboRUAxljckX5HY73oUtz-OdP4msyOnYU46G8ghNiq1MC-ocK_hJ1fRd_gbl-oxZiPDr_uKQUQzuw1D9YU2eLJx7Fw/s1600/DSC_3925.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxmeoN_H1KCpIhiFqOPX5sj0w3RBxexJZsmNHxp4RMDN84dboRUAxljckX5HY73oUtz-OdP4msyOnYU46G8ghNiq1MC-ocK_hJ1fRd_gbl-oxZiPDr_uKQUQzuw1D9YU2eLJx7Fw/s1600/DSC_3925.jpg" /></a></div><br />
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I told you the room was small! I still have to hang some art and decide if I like the dresser in front of the bed. Here's my pile of art waiting for me to do something with it. Note the ugly blue rug again. Man I hate that rug.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIOxTC3rhelf_c4Uv_oBuuYRpIrHKSIal6GqHyOCZtdaNQWQ5nCN1skjz9I1yI7X5ixCIC53svePKbAlg5tNcbwIN5ZOFWPhZaj2v6bQa9oGgUqzXC99kwUeod_lCo6vhSZBMt2A/s1600/DSC_3933.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIOxTC3rhelf_c4Uv_oBuuYRpIrHKSIal6GqHyOCZtdaNQWQ5nCN1skjz9I1yI7X5ixCIC53svePKbAlg5tNcbwIN5ZOFWPhZaj2v6bQa9oGgUqzXC99kwUeod_lCo6vhSZBMt2A/s1600/DSC_3933.jpg" /></a></div>Jill Jenningshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01305177376856047686noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23247591.post-84873839594483018902011-10-25T15:01:00.001-04:002011-10-28T10:16:09.165-04:00The Heirloom Harvest Dinner: Part 2I said I'd be back again tomorrow. Are you surprised I actually followed through? <br />
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<b>The Decor</b><br />
As I mentioned yesterday, Sunday was spent decorating the barn in prep for the dinner that evening. Because I attended the dinner, I only got a couple photos of the main event, but I did have an amazing opportunity to photograph the pre-dinner transformation.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg87iDX7OhiJFE6mSX1yYC0x0edoLUwJVLS8MVcPBgqYePKgtqbo7o26hdkfuAHoxSlA4cq_VOqGk0M82pUaTt1vgTKcdH-Wh4uZ4zh6OejR8BTTYu1aX-pksJ9ciUQ8SSigx64lg/s1600/2011+Heirloom+Harvest+Dinner_2804.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg87iDX7OhiJFE6mSX1yYC0x0edoLUwJVLS8MVcPBgqYePKgtqbo7o26hdkfuAHoxSlA4cq_VOqGk0M82pUaTt1vgTKcdH-Wh4uZ4zh6OejR8BTTYu1aX-pksJ9ciUQ8SSigx64lg/s1600/2011+Heirloom+Harvest+Dinner_2804.jpg" /></a></div><br />
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<b>The Food</b><br />
Ten local chefs paired up (two chefs per course) to produce five unique courses made from locally-sourced foods with a focus on heirloom varieties.<br />
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The five-course dinner started behind the barn under a tent where guests were served a selection of hors d'oeuvres paired with local aperitifs including Throwback Brewery's Raspberry Wit made from Jean and Josh's raspberries.<br />
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We then moved into the barn were we were served the remaining four courses which ranged from Grilled Maine Sea Scallops to Muskmelon Gooseberry Gazpacho Shooters. The main course consisted of lamb prepared four different ways. My favorite of which was braised with, what I think was, some sort of red wine reduction. Throughout the meal, we enjoyed Flint Cornbread and Whole Wheat Sourdough Bread with Peach Butter and Herb-whipped Cultured Butter, both from Vermont Butter and Cheese. We ended the evening with a selection of small desserts including a Poached Reliance Peach with Mascarpone Sabayon. It was an amazing spread. As I type this, I know I'm not even beginning to do it justice.<br />
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We spent the joyful evening stuffing our faces and chatting it up with friends. Even now, it brings a big smile to my face. I feel really blessed to have been a part of the day.<br />
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You can learn more about the annual Heirloom Harvest Dinner <a href="http://seacoasteatlocal.org/2011/09/2011-heirloom-harvest-barn-dinner-%E2%80%94-a-gathering-of-community/" target="_blank">here</a>. You can see all my photos on the Seacoast Eat Local Flickr stream <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/seacoasteatlocal/sets/72157627599848185/" target="_blank">here</a>. You can read Part 1 of this post <a href="http://fiercegirldesign.blogspot.com/2011/10/heirloom-harvest-dinner-part-1.html">here</a>.Jill Jenningshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01305177376856047686noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23247591.post-45466927869508418002011-10-24T10:46:00.002-04:002011-10-28T10:17:36.101-04:00The Heirloom Harvest Dinner: Part 1I've been wanting to write this post for about a month now. I'm not sure if it was the idea of blogging about such a monumental experience or just laziness that has caused me to put it off until now. Probably a little of both. But I really wanted to give this experience the props it deserved, and I knew that was gonna take time.<br />
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It all began with a quick trip Zach and I took to NH in mid September for the third annual Heirloom Harvest Dinner at Josh and Jean's (Zach's brother and sister-in-law) farm in Stratham, NH. We drove up on a Friday afternoon and home again the following Monday morning. It was a whirlwind trip, to say the least. But what an amazing weekend full of new experiences, gorgeous weather, delightful people, and delicious food. Because the dinner was in the barn of the house Jean and Josh live in, my camera and I were able to get a behind-the-scenes look at everything that goes into making this dinner possible.<br />
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Rumor has it Saturday morning a bunch of volunteers showed up to clean out the main part of the barn in preparation for setting up tables for the dinner Sunday evening. Zach and I had work to do, so we headed off to Panera Bread in the morning to work on our laptops. When we got back later in the afternoon, the barn was spotless. These volunteers are amazing! And fast! You can see the barn is ready for tables here...<br />
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Speaking of volunteers, they were coming out of the woodwork all weekend. People were scurrying about all day Sunday setting up tables and decorating the space to the nines. Then more volunteers showed up late Sunday afternoon to serve the five-course dinner to all us lazy, non-volunteering folk. In fact, this event is so popular, they actually have a waiting list for volunteers! What a fabulous "problem" to have. It's really encouraging to see how passionate people are about local food.<br />
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But I'm getting ahead of myself. So, as I said, Zach and I got back to the farm in the afternoon to find the barn clean and ready for decor the next day. Since everything was done for the day, we all decided to go check out the pigs. Here's Jean and Josh with their happy-as-a-clam pigs. <br />
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Then we went for a walk in the woods down to the pond. The light was beautiful.<br />
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That evening, we had dinner with some of Jean and Josh's neighbors and friends. Since we had already set up the tables on the second level of the barn, Jean suggested we eat dinner there. So all fourteen of us gathered around and enjoyed a delicious spread of homemade casserole, roasted eggplant, mixed greens salad and a decadant desert from a bakery in Boston. And lots of wine and beer too, of course. Everyone was so generous and lovely. <br />
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After dinner one friend brought out his stash of paper lanterns. I had never seen anything like them before and grabbed my camera as we headed out across the street and into the dark field. By now it was around 11PM - perfect for lighting things on fire. Everyone got a lantern and we passed around a lighter to light them. Then, one by one, we released them into the sky. It was a magical evening.<br />
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Stop by tomorrow for the <a href="http://fiercegirldesign.blogspot.com/2011/10/heirloom-harvest-dinner-part-2.html">second installment</a> of our barn dinner weekend experience, where I'll share lots more photos.Jill Jenningshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01305177376856047686noreply@blogger.com1