Friday, February 17, 2012
Longwood Gardens in Winter
I went to Longwood Gardens again the other day. I just love it there. So peaceful and serene. It's a perfect escape from the cold, bareness of winter.
Friday, February 03, 2012
Let's Frame Something: Finishing
Well, miraculously, we've made it to the final day of this week-long tutorial. Today we're going to be talking about the final steps needed to finish framing your piece so you can hang it on the wall. Yippee!
Here's a list of basic supplies you'll need:
backing board with mat board and artwork attached (hinged, dry mounted or other attachment method)
glass or plexiglass (cut to size)
frame
point driver (if your frame doesn't have metal tabs on the back of it.)
ATG double-sided tape (and tape gun, if you have one. If not, don't worry)
craft paper (for dust cover)
hangers with screws
hanging wire
bumpers (optional)
Putting Everything Into The Frame
Now we need to take our picture sandwich and pop it into the frame.
I custom ordered my frame online from here. It's a solid maple frame that they built to my specified dimensions (13 5/8" by 13 5/8"). You may notice it came with little black metal tabs on the back. These are bent down over the backing board to hold everything in place.
Here's a close up of the back side of the frame, with one of the tabs bent down.
Some frames (particularly custom ones) don't come with those tabs. It's times like these when you need a point driver. Designed to fire little metal points into the side of your frame, a point driver is a super useful tool to have on hand when custom framing.
Okay, it's time to load your picture sandwich into the frame. Pick up your stack of backing board, artwork, mat, and glass and carefully pinch it together with one hand (like holding a book). While tipping the back of the frame towards it, line up one side of your stack with the back of the frame.
This can be a bit like a Laurel and Hardy show and sometimes it's easier to load the glass into the frame first and then everything else because the glass tends to catch on those little metal tabs on the frame (one negative of having them). You should have seen me trying to set up the sequence of shots for this step. Imagine me trying to prop up the frame with one hand and slide the glass in with the other. As I was doing this, the frame was so slippery, it started to slide across the table, almost pushing my artwork onto the floor which caused me to start flailing around (the logical choice in any situation like this) trying to simultaneously stop the frame from sliding and catch the artwork with the other. Unfortunately, the hand trying to do the catching was holding a big piece of glass at the time. Let's just say I lucked out and didn't break the glass. All this is to say, don't do that.
So load your glass in first if it's easier.
Get your hand underneath the frame and slowly lower the glass down into the frame.
Don't worry about getting finger prints on the underside of the glass at this point. As long as the side of the glass that will be facing your artwork is clean, you're good to go.
During this step, you may kick up some dust or bits of frame onto the glass. Just take a paper towel, or, even better, a lint-free cloth, and spray it with a little Windex. Then gently wipe away the dust and bits. After the glass is dry, gently lay everything else into the frame.
Push down the metal tabs onto the back of the backing board (you may need to use a screw driver), but only push down the one in the middle of each side.
Then flip over your piece and check it for dust. If everything looks good, flip it back over and depress the rest of the tabs.
If you find some dust or bits floating around, hold the frame in both hands as if you're about to hang it on the wall (perpendicular to the table). Then gently tap the bottom of the frame on your work surface (being very careful not to damage your frame or table or to break the glass). If this doesn't dislodge the offending bits, flip your frame back over, lift the tabs (aren't you glad you only depressed four of them?) and lift everything off the glass so you can wipe off the inside of the glass. Once the glass is clean and dry (make sure it's dry!), check your mat and artwork for any remaining dust etc. and then place them back into the frame. This step can be maddening. Just when you think you've gotten every last bit of dust out and you depress ALL of those tabs, you find something else behind the glass. Hang in there. You will eventually get it right. Or you'll say "good enough!" and give up. Either way, you'll be done with this part.
Applying The Dust Cover
It was a huge pain to get all that dust out, so you want to protect your artwork from any more dust particles (or spiders or other bugs) that try to sneak in behind the glass (the nerve!). What you need is a dust cover. Regular old craft paper, available at most craft stores (I've actually even found it at Ikea with the wrapping paper) works perfectly as a dust cover. simply roll out a section large enough to cover the back of your frame.
Crease along the edges (so you can see where your frame ends)...
and cut slightly larger than where you creased.
Set cover aside.
Now use your tape gun to apply ATG double-sided tape around the perimeter of the back of your frame. Here:
What? You don't have an ATG tape gun? Don't worry, neither do I.
I guess I should have mentioned ATG tape on day one of this tutorial, but I didn't think about it until now (What kind of half-baked tutorial is this?). Basically ATG tape is a double-sided tape used by framers to stick things together, specifically the dust cover to the frame (and sometimes the mat to the backing board). It comes in regular (acidic) and acid-free varieties and can be applied with, our without, a snazzy applicator gun (but the gun, of course, makes it a lot easier). The tape has a plastic backing on it, so you can easily apply it without the aid of a tape gun. Simply unroll a little tape and press it down along the back permimeter of the frame, unrolling more tape as you need it and pressing as you go. Then remove the tape backing.
FULL DISCLOSURE:
I don't usually apply a dust cover because I'm lazy. So I don't actually have any ATG tape to show you this step. But who needs pictures? My perfectly clear instructions and razor sharp wit are really all you need.
Once you've applied your tape, carefully center your dust cover over your frame
and firmly press it onto the tape along one side of the frame, creasing the paper over the edge of the frame.
Then pull the paper taught across the frame and firmly press the paper onto the tape on the opposite side. Do the same for the remaining two sides so the paper is firmly stuck to the back of the frame and creased on all four sides. The creasing helps you see where your frame ends so you know where to trim the excess paper.
Now take a straight razor blade, and with your pointer finger extending down next to the frame, slowly (and carefully!) drag the blade along the paper using your finger as a guide.
Once you've removed the excess paper on all four sides you can proceed to the next step.
Adding The Hanging Wire
Before you begin this step, quickly lift your frame up and verify that the top of your artwork is the side closest to you. We want to make sure when we measure for the hanging wire placement, that we do so on the correct side of the frame. We don't want to attach our wire to the wrong end.
Our frame measures about 15 inches high from outside edge to outside edge. We want our wire hanger to be about 1/3 of the way down from the top of the frame, about 5 inches (15 ÷ 3 = 5). Note: When I say "top of the frame" it's technically the bottom of the frame from our current view point, since we've flipped the frame over so the top of our artwork is closest to us. So measure 5 inches from the bottom edge and mark with a pencil.
Then drill a small pilot hole in the frame. Try to center it on the frame so you don't drill too close to the outside edge and ruin your frame. You also don't want to drill too deep. There's nothing worse then flipping your frame right side up and realizing you've drilled straight through to the front. Maddness. Measure and drill on the opposite side as well.
Whenever I order my frames online, I get a nice little kit that includes, two hangers, two screws, and some wire. Most frames should come with these items, if not, you can pick up a kit at most craft stores or frame shops.
Screw your hangers into the pre-drilled holes until they're firmly in place and don't shift from side to side.
Take one end of your wire and feed it through one of the hangers.
Wrap the loose end underneath the wire, from front to back.
Feed the loose end through the hanger again and pull it tight.
Pull the loose end under the wire so the loose end is closest to you. Now wrap the loose end up over the top of the wire (away from you)
and back around underneth the wire (towards you).
Continue wrapping the loose end around the wire several more times.
Trim any excess, if neccesary.
Pull the wire taut and loop it through the other hanger, repeating the same wire wrapping process.
Trim the excess with a pair of wire cutters.
At this point you can add, what are known in the industry as "bumpers," to the back of your frame. Bumpers are tiny little rubber dots that are sticky on one side so you can attach them to the back bottom two corners of your frame to prevent your frame from scratching your wall. You can find them in most craft stores (I know. Who would have guessed?).
And here's our finished piece:
Well, I hope you've found this week-longdecent into hell tutorial to be helpful and that it's given you the courage and the skills to frame something with your own two hands (and save yourself some dough in the process!). If you have any questions or need anything clarified, leave me a note in the comments section, and I'll do my best to help you out. Happy framing!
Here's a list of basic supplies you'll need:
backing board with mat board and artwork attached (hinged, dry mounted or other attachment method)
glass or plexiglass (cut to size)
frame
point driver (if your frame doesn't have metal tabs on the back of it.)
ATG double-sided tape (and tape gun, if you have one. If not, don't worry)
craft paper (for dust cover)
hangers with screws
hanging wire
bumpers (optional)
Putting Everything Into The Frame
Now we need to take our picture sandwich and pop it into the frame.
I custom ordered my frame online from here. It's a solid maple frame that they built to my specified dimensions (13 5/8" by 13 5/8"). You may notice it came with little black metal tabs on the back. These are bent down over the backing board to hold everything in place.
Here's a close up of the back side of the frame, with one of the tabs bent down.
Some frames (particularly custom ones) don't come with those tabs. It's times like these when you need a point driver. Designed to fire little metal points into the side of your frame, a point driver is a super useful tool to have on hand when custom framing.
Okay, it's time to load your picture sandwich into the frame. Pick up your stack of backing board, artwork, mat, and glass and carefully pinch it together with one hand (like holding a book). While tipping the back of the frame towards it, line up one side of your stack with the back of the frame.
This can be a bit like a Laurel and Hardy show and sometimes it's easier to load the glass into the frame first and then everything else because the glass tends to catch on those little metal tabs on the frame (one negative of having them). You should have seen me trying to set up the sequence of shots for this step. Imagine me trying to prop up the frame with one hand and slide the glass in with the other. As I was doing this, the frame was so slippery, it started to slide across the table, almost pushing my artwork onto the floor which caused me to start flailing around (the logical choice in any situation like this) trying to simultaneously stop the frame from sliding and catch the artwork with the other. Unfortunately, the hand trying to do the catching was holding a big piece of glass at the time. Let's just say I lucked out and didn't break the glass. All this is to say, don't do that.
So load your glass in first if it's easier.
Get your hand underneath the frame and slowly lower the glass down into the frame.
Don't worry about getting finger prints on the underside of the glass at this point. As long as the side of the glass that will be facing your artwork is clean, you're good to go.
During this step, you may kick up some dust or bits of frame onto the glass. Just take a paper towel, or, even better, a lint-free cloth, and spray it with a little Windex. Then gently wipe away the dust and bits. After the glass is dry, gently lay everything else into the frame.
Push down the metal tabs onto the back of the backing board (you may need to use a screw driver), but only push down the one in the middle of each side.
Then flip over your piece and check it for dust. If everything looks good, flip it back over and depress the rest of the tabs.
If you find some dust or bits floating around, hold the frame in both hands as if you're about to hang it on the wall (perpendicular to the table). Then gently tap the bottom of the frame on your work surface (being very careful not to damage your frame or table or to break the glass). If this doesn't dislodge the offending bits, flip your frame back over, lift the tabs (aren't you glad you only depressed four of them?) and lift everything off the glass so you can wipe off the inside of the glass. Once the glass is clean and dry (make sure it's dry!), check your mat and artwork for any remaining dust etc. and then place them back into the frame. This step can be maddening. Just when you think you've gotten every last bit of dust out and you depress ALL of those tabs, you find something else behind the glass. Hang in there. You will eventually get it right. Or you'll say "good enough!" and give up. Either way, you'll be done with this part.
Applying The Dust Cover
It was a huge pain to get all that dust out, so you want to protect your artwork from any more dust particles (or spiders or other bugs) that try to sneak in behind the glass (the nerve!). What you need is a dust cover. Regular old craft paper, available at most craft stores (I've actually even found it at Ikea with the wrapping paper) works perfectly as a dust cover. simply roll out a section large enough to cover the back of your frame.
Crease along the edges (so you can see where your frame ends)...
and cut slightly larger than where you creased.
Set cover aside.
Now use your tape gun to apply ATG double-sided tape around the perimeter of the back of your frame. Here:
What? You don't have an ATG tape gun? Don't worry, neither do I.
I guess I should have mentioned ATG tape on day one of this tutorial, but I didn't think about it until now (What kind of half-baked tutorial is this?). Basically ATG tape is a double-sided tape used by framers to stick things together, specifically the dust cover to the frame (and sometimes the mat to the backing board). It comes in regular (acidic) and acid-free varieties and can be applied with, our without, a snazzy applicator gun (but the gun, of course, makes it a lot easier). The tape has a plastic backing on it, so you can easily apply it without the aid of a tape gun. Simply unroll a little tape and press it down along the back permimeter of the frame, unrolling more tape as you need it and pressing as you go. Then remove the tape backing.
FULL DISCLOSURE:
I don't usually apply a dust cover because I'm lazy. So I don't actually have any ATG tape to show you this step. But who needs pictures? My perfectly clear instructions and razor sharp wit are really all you need.
Once you've applied your tape, carefully center your dust cover over your frame
and firmly press it onto the tape along one side of the frame, creasing the paper over the edge of the frame.
Then pull the paper taught across the frame and firmly press the paper onto the tape on the opposite side. Do the same for the remaining two sides so the paper is firmly stuck to the back of the frame and creased on all four sides. The creasing helps you see where your frame ends so you know where to trim the excess paper.
Now take a straight razor blade, and with your pointer finger extending down next to the frame, slowly (and carefully!) drag the blade along the paper using your finger as a guide.
Once you've removed the excess paper on all four sides you can proceed to the next step.
Adding The Hanging Wire
Before you begin this step, quickly lift your frame up and verify that the top of your artwork is the side closest to you. We want to make sure when we measure for the hanging wire placement, that we do so on the correct side of the frame. We don't want to attach our wire to the wrong end.
Our frame measures about 15 inches high from outside edge to outside edge. We want our wire hanger to be about 1/3 of the way down from the top of the frame, about 5 inches (15 ÷ 3 = 5). Note: When I say "top of the frame" it's technically the bottom of the frame from our current view point, since we've flipped the frame over so the top of our artwork is closest to us. So measure 5 inches from the bottom edge and mark with a pencil.
Then drill a small pilot hole in the frame. Try to center it on the frame so you don't drill too close to the outside edge and ruin your frame. You also don't want to drill too deep. There's nothing worse then flipping your frame right side up and realizing you've drilled straight through to the front. Maddness. Measure and drill on the opposite side as well.
Whenever I order my frames online, I get a nice little kit that includes, two hangers, two screws, and some wire. Most frames should come with these items, if not, you can pick up a kit at most craft stores or frame shops.
Screw your hangers into the pre-drilled holes until they're firmly in place and don't shift from side to side.
Take one end of your wire and feed it through one of the hangers.
Wrap the loose end underneath the wire, from front to back.
Feed the loose end through the hanger again and pull it tight.
Pull the loose end under the wire so the loose end is closest to you. Now wrap the loose end up over the top of the wire (away from you)
and back around underneth the wire (towards you).
Continue wrapping the loose end around the wire several more times.
Trim any excess, if neccesary.
Pull the wire taut and loop it through the other hanger, repeating the same wire wrapping process.
Trim the excess with a pair of wire cutters.
At this point you can add, what are known in the industry as "bumpers," to the back of your frame. Bumpers are tiny little rubber dots that are sticky on one side so you can attach them to the back bottom two corners of your frame to prevent your frame from scratching your wall. You can find them in most craft stores (I know. Who would have guessed?).
And here's our finished piece:
Well, I hope you've found this week-long
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