Let's Frame Something: Measuring

Now that you know a little bit more about the supplies, let's start framing some artwork! You should note, I'll be referring to whatever we're framing as "artwork." That may or may not be accurate. It might just be a free poster you got at the gym or a document proving your restaurant passed its health code inspection. Maybe it's a bunch of family photos you printed from your computer. Whatever it is, the same rules and techniques apply. Okay, let's get started.

Here's a list of basic supplies you'll need:
pencil (to write down your measurements)
ruler
artwork to be framed

Measuring the Inside (Opening) Dimensions
I've created a handy little graphic to aid in explaining this process. Let's start with a little diagram of our mat board. I'll be referencing the letters shown here throughout this tutorial.

First we need to measure our artwork. This will determine how big we need to cut the opening of the mat board (A by B). I realize not everyone has their own mat cutter, but stick with me. Even if you don't cut your own mats, it's still helpful to understand the process.

You always want to leave at least 1/8 of an inch of extra space on each side of your measurement. For example, if your picture measures 8 inches wide, your measurement for the width of the mat opening should be no more than 7 3/4 inches wide. If the mat opening was cut any wider than that, you would see the edge of your picture and we don't want that! This extra space guarantees your picture extends beyond the mat board opening. There's nothing more frustrating than carefully cutting out a mat and placing it on top of your image only to discover that the opening of the mat is bigger than your image. Bad words! This is why it's so important to follow the old adage of "measure twice, cut once."

Now let's take a look at the artwork we'll be framing today:

You'll notice that there isn't much white space on the left and right of the bird, so our first measurement (A) will have to be very close to the edge.

Simply hold the ruler over the artwork (being careful not to scuff your artwork) with the left edge of the ruler starting where you want the mat opening to start. Now measure across the piece to where you want the mat opening to end. In this case, 8 5/8 inches. As you can see, there's still a little extra white space beyond our measurement on each side so we're assured the mat opening is smaller than our artwork.

Here's a close up:

Okay, time to measure our height. Unlike the left and right side of the bird, there's plenty of white space above and below the bird. White space that we don't want to show once the piece is framed. So we need to make the height measurement (B) much shorter than the full height of the picture (Basically we need to leave a lot more than 1/8 of an inch of extra space on either side of our height measurement).

I realized I could basically make the piece square, so I decided to make the height measurement the same, 8 5/8 inches.

Sometimes your artwork has so much extra space beyond the image, that you have to cut off the extra. For example, you may have three inches of extra space extending beyond the mat opening but only a two inch mat (E) all the way around your image. Here's that mat graphic again so you don't have to scroll all the way to the top of the post to see what "E" is referencing.

When you're framing something like a poster, it's usually not a big deal to cut off the extra, but if you're framing a family heirloom, you may want to reconsider and just allow more white space to show within the mat opening, thereby making your overall mat size much larger.

Okay, we've measured our artwork and determined the size of our mat opening. Now it's time for a little math discussion. That's right, this is the part of the tutorial where I warn you that we are about to start talking about M-A-T-H. Fractions to be exact. This is your one chance to run away, to find a link to click on that will free you from such ludicrous discussions. Of course, if math really scares you that much, you may want to hang around because this might be a good time to brush up on your understanding of fractions. Who would have thought that the way I finally understood fractions (I mean really understood in a meaningful way that was useful in my daily life) was working as a custom framer? I'm sure some of you feel completely comfortable around numbers and don't require my silly little tutorial, but if you've ever caught yourself saying something like, "It's two lines beyond the half inch mark." as you tried to read a ruler, this tutorial is for you.

Reading a Ruler
An inch can be broken up into any number of increments, but the most common increments are halves, quarters, eighths, and sixteenths (and sometimes thirty-seconds). With framing, you want to be as accurate as possible (within reason). Typically that means measuring to the nearest 1/8 of an inch (remember our 8 5/8 inches measurement above?). So if you know you're dealing with 1/8 inch increments, it's easiest to convert everything to eighths. To make this easier to understand, I created a little ruler graphic.

You'll notice that I've marked the 1/2 inch mark as "1/2 or 2/4 or 4/8 or 8/16" because 4/8 of an inch is the same as 1/2 an inch. That one is pretty obvious, but what if you're measuring a piece of artwork and your width measurement doesn't fall on the half inch mark? First you need to figure out how detailed your ruler is. Is it showing up to eighths of an inch? Sixteenths? Thirty-seconds? The way to figure this out is to count the number of little lines between the 0 (or the beginning of the ruler if your ruler doesn't have a 0 on it.) and the 1, including the 1. If you count 16, you'll know your ruler is broken up into sixteenths of an inch. If you count 32, you'll know your ruler is broken up into thirty-seconds of an inch, and so on.

Here's a close up of the ruler with sixteenths marked in red.

Here's eighths marked in red...

and quarters (fourths) marked in red.

As I mentioned before, our goal is typically to measure our artwork to the closest eighth of an inch, so start to think of 1/2 of an inch as 4/8 of an inch; and 1/4 of an inch as 2/8 of an inch. Once you start thinking of all measurements in eighths, it will become much easier to measure your artwork to the nearest eighth of an inch. I hope this ruler discussion was helpful and not just overly simplified (or wordy and complicated!). Leave me a comment if you need anything clarified.

Measuring the Outside Dimensions (for Mat and Frame)
Now that we know the size of our mat opening (A by B), we need to determine how big to make the outside of the mat (C by D) and the frame (also C by D). Our mat opening is 8 5/8 inches wide (A) by 8 5/8 inches high (B). The standard mat is usually about 2 inches on each side of the artwork (E), but I decided to make mine just a hair larger at 2 1/2 inches. So we need to add 2 1/2 inches on the left side of the opening and 2 1/2 inches on the right side of the opening for a total of 5 inches. This means we are adding 5 inches to the width and 5 inches to the height. So our total outside measurement of the mat (also the frame) is 13 5/8 inches wide (C) by 13 5/8 inches high (D) (8 5/8 + 5 = 13 5/8). I told you there would be fractions.

Stop by tomorrow when I will show you how to cut the mat we just took so many pains to measure properly.

Let's Frame Something: Supplies

I'm finally getting around to framing the purple finch my cousin painted for me (I wrote about it here.), and I thought it might be useful if I did a tutorial of the process. So I'm going to spend this week sharing some framing tips and tricks.

I've been doing all my own picture framing since I was in college and got a summer job working at a framing studio. Most summer jobs serve one purpose. Money. They're annoying and highly motivating at keeping you in school because you don't want to be cleaning toilets for the rest of your life. But the skills I acquired working as a custom framer have actually proven to be really useful throughout my life. By doing my own framing, I've been able to save tons of money, while still achieving a custom look. I hope the information I share this week will give you the courage and knowledge you need to frame something yourself. Let's get started!

Before we start the process of actually framing something, I'm going to discuss the supplies you'll need. Today I'm going to talk about mat board, backing board, and glass (glazing); available varieties of each; and where to buy them.

CATEGORIES OF MAT BOARD
There are several available options when it comes to selecting mat board, but all mat board falls into one of two broad categories: acidic, or non-acidic (acid-free). It's important to consider the quality of your mat board because it will make a difference in the long-term "health" of your framed artwork.

Standard - Made of wood pulp (lignin). You can tell a mat board is acidic if the white core has yellowed or turned brown. This type of mat board is not recommended.

Acid-Free - While most standard mat board is acid-free, over time it will eventually become acidic again because the acid isn't removed, it's just temporarily neutralized. Recommended for posters or anything that doesn't hold a major sentimental value or require conservation-level preservation.

100% Rag - Conservation-level mat board. Made of 100% cotton (so the color goes all the way through the board) and is free of lignin (wood pulp) and any other acid-causing agents.

100% Alpha Cellulose - Conservation-level mat board. Made from wood pulp that has been essentially pulverized. Unlike standard mat board, the lignin has been removed, making it acid-free.

For more info on mat board, you can visit Alto's website here.

BUYING MAT BOARD
You can find full sheets of mat board (typically 32 x 40 inches) at most craft and art supply stores as well as custom frame shops. Unfortunately, they usually offer a limited color selection. Happily, some stores will order you a full sheet (from their full line of colors) when they place their weekly orders, which is a great option as long as you can wait the two weeks for the mat to arrive. If you're really lucky, you might find a frame shop that offers full sheets of all their mat board colors AND previously-cut mat remnants for a reduced price. You'll know you've stumbled upon something awesome because the heavens will open up and light will gently stream down upon you and a choir of angels will start singing and... what were we talking about? Oh yeah, mat board. Anyway, you can also order mat board online, but they usually make you buy in bulk (typically a minimum of 10 sheets), so this may not be cost effective.

CATEGORIES OF BACKING BOARD
Backing board is very similar to mat board in that it comes in acid and acid-free versions and the same considerations apply when selecting your backing.

Cardboard - Basic option (often free!). Acidic so not recommended for conservation work or any artwork that has a sentimental or high monitary value. It's fairly easy to cut with a sharp X-acto knife.

Regular Foam Core - This is NOT acid-free, but it's still a good quality backing. Consists of a layer of foam wedged between two layers of paper. It's more ridged than card board and offers some moisture protection as well. It's easy to cut with a sharp X-acto knife. Perfect for most framing projects. Gives a neat, clean look to the back of your frame.

Acid-Free Foam Core - Same as regular foam core but with improved long-term performance because it is acid-free. A must for conservation work.

BUYING BACKING BOARD
You can find full sheets of cardboard and foam core in a variety of sizes at most craft and art supply stores as well as custom frame shops and online.

If you're using cardboard as your backing, you can simply cut a piece from an old box. Nothing like free backing board to reduce the cost of your framing project! Just remember it's acidic (as is regular foam core), so it won't protect precious artwork over the long haul. It may take a long time, but your artwork will eventually yellow.

CATEGORIES OF GLASS
Glass ("glazing") is also available in a range of options.

Standard - Most common option. Offers a clear finish. Good option for many framing situations, especially digital photos that can be easily reprinted (they will fade over time) and inexpensive posters. I use standard glass for all my framing projects (including artwork), but if you have a very special piece and it hangs in direct sunlight, you may want to consider using UV-Blocking glass (listed below).

Non-Glare - More expensive than standard glass because it offers a special finish that reduces glare. Good option for same situations listed above. Not recommended for shadow boxes or double-matted artwork because the special coating on the glass causes some distortion and reduces clarity when space is incresed between it and the artwork.

A Note About Non-Glare Glass:
Back when I was working as a custom framer, we offered a type of glass that had a hazy coating on top of it. It was like a really subtle version of that film some people put on their bathroom windows or back doors. It lets the light in but blurs the glass so you can't really see anything through it. You know the stuff I'm talking about. Anyway, non-glare was more expensive than standard glass and was designed to remove a lot of the glare caused by sunshine streaming into your living room and right onto your picture, therefore making it IMPOSSIBLE to see! The nerve of that sun! I used to think non-glare was superior to standard glass, but over time I began to realize that along with its ability to remove glare it also removed all the contrast and clarity of the framed piece. So you'll never catch me using any non-glare glass on my pictures. I like the sun. And I like the glare. Because I like the contrast and clarity in my pictures. Besides, if I can't see my pictures from sun glare, I can always take a step to the right or the left or hang the picture where the sun can't find it.

UV-Blocking - Over time, the UV rays of the sun can fade and damage your artwork. If this is a concern, particularly if you are framing something really valuable or sentimental, you should use UV-blocking glass. It comes in both clear and non-glare versions. Bet you know which one I recommend.

Acrylic Glazing (Plexiglass) - Available in the same categories above (standard, non-glare, UV-blocking)

BUYING GLASS
The same frame shops that offer full sheets of mat board also sell glass and/or acrylic (plexiglass). Most frame shops will custom cut a piece of glass to your measurements, but you can get the same glass (usually for much less) at a custom glass shop. The same places that sell windows and shower doors usually also sell picture frame glass (often plexiglass too) and will often cut if for you while you wait. Just call up the shop in question and ask if they cut picture frame glass. They'll let you know what they offer.

Of course, you can also order glass and acrylic online and have it custom cut to your measurements or buy it in bulk in standard sizes.

A Note About Acrylic Glazing (Plexiglass)
- Make sure you buy acrylic and NOT polycarbonate, which yellows over time.

- It scrates very easily and requires special cleaners. If you wipe it with Windex and a paper towel, it will scratch.

- It comes with a protective plastic covering on both sides that you peel off right before you put it in the frame (no cleaning required, if you do it right.).

- Typically available in sizes ranging from 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch. Don't buy anything less than 1/16 of an inch as it will be very flimsy and may warp and therefore distort your artwork.

Okay, that just about wraps it up. I'll be back tomorrow with tips on how to measure your own custom mat. Be sure to check out the resources I've listed below. Also, feel free to ask any questions in the comments section.

Online resources for custom framing supplies:
Graphic Dimensions (where I order most of my framing supplies)
Framing Supplies (never ordered from them, but they have a lot of helpful product info)
United Mfrs. Supplies, Inc. (never ordered from them, but they have a great selection of archival tape and foam core)

Goals Update

So you may be wondering how I'm doing with my list of goals for 2012. Or maybe not, but I'm gonna tell you anyway. Here's where I stand:

1. Finish knitting the wrap sweater I started 3 or 4 years ago.
2. Photograph the collection of childhood sweaters my Nana crocheted for me as a kid.
3. Create 5 free printables for blog.
4. Use up entire stack of printmaking paper.
5. Make a linocut you're really proud of (this will aid in accomplishing item #4).
6. Read a book.
7. Send some of your food photos to a magazine and see if they will print them.
8. Make a spring wreath out of crepe paper.
9. Design a website pro bono. working on this one.
10. Find a new recipe and make it. Done! I actually made TWO recipes. Check them out here and here.
11. Sew a shirt.
12. Frame a piece of artwork. working on this one.

It's about time: 12 goals for 2012

I've been planning this blog post for weeks! It seems like one thing after another kept taking precedence. But enough excuses. This is a new year with new opportunities and endless possibilities. I just love the "fresh-start" feeling the new year brings.

In that spirit, I've set some goals for myself. I figured 12 goals for 2012 had a nice ring to it. So here's my list of 12 things I hope to accomplish in 2012:

1. Finish knitting the wrap sweater I started 3 or 4 years ago.
2. Photograph the collection of childhood sweaters my Nana crocheted for me as a kid.
3. Create 5 free printables for blog.
4. Use up entire stack of printmaking paper.
5. Make a linocut you're really proud of (this will aid in accomplishing item #4).
6. Read a book.
7. Send some of your food photos to a magazine and see if they will print them.
8. Make a spring wreath out of crepe paper.
9. Design a website pro bono.
10. Find a new recipe and make it.
11. Sew a shirt.
12. Frame a piece of artwork.

I'll check things off as I go. Stay tuned.