I'm finally getting around to framing the purple finch my cousin painted for me (I wrote about it here.), and I thought it might be useful if I did a tutorial of the process. So I'm going to spend this week sharing some framing tips and tricks.
I've been doing all my own picture framing since I was in college and got a summer job working at a framing studio. Most summer jobs serve one purpose. Money. They're annoying and highly motivating at keeping you in school because you don't want to be cleaning toilets for the rest of your life. But the skills I acquired working as a custom framer have actually proven to be really useful throughout my life. By doing my own framing, I've been able to save tons of money, while still achieving a custom look. I hope the information I share this week will give you the courage and knowledge you need to frame something yourself. Let's get started!
Before we start the process of actually framing something, I'm going to discuss the supplies you'll need. Today I'm going to talk about mat board, backing board, and glass (glazing); available varieties of each; and where to buy them.
CATEGORIES OF MAT BOARD
There are several available options when it comes to selecting mat board, but all mat board falls into one of two broad categories: acidic, or non-acidic (acid-free). It's important to consider the quality of your mat board because it will make a difference in the long-term "health" of your framed artwork.
Standard - Made of wood pulp (lignin). You can tell a mat board is acidic if the white core has yellowed or turned brown. This type of mat board is not recommended.
Acid-Free - While most standard mat board is acid-free, over time it will eventually become acidic again because the acid isn't removed, it's just temporarily neutralized. Recommended for posters or anything that doesn't hold a major sentimental value or require conservation-level preservation.
100% Rag - Conservation-level mat board. Made of 100% cotton (so the color goes all the way through the board) and is free of lignin (wood pulp) and any other acid-causing agents.
100% Alpha Cellulose - Conservation-level mat board. Made from wood pulp that has been essentially pulverized. Unlike standard mat board, the lignin has been removed, making it acid-free.
For more info on mat board, you can visit Alto's website here.
BUYING MAT BOARD
You can find full sheets of mat board (typically 32 x 40 inches) at most craft and art supply stores as well as custom frame shops. Unfortunately, they usually offer a limited color selection. Happily, some stores will order you a full sheet (from their full line of colors) when they place their weekly orders, which is a great option as long as you can wait the two weeks for the mat to arrive. If you're really lucky, you might find a frame shop that offers full sheets of all their mat board colors AND previously-cut mat remnants for a reduced price. You'll know you've stumbled upon something awesome because the heavens will open up and light will gently stream down upon you and a choir of angels will start singing and... what were we talking about? Oh yeah, mat board. Anyway, you can also order mat board online, but they usually make you buy in bulk (typically a minimum of 10 sheets), so this may not be cost effective.
CATEGORIES OF BACKING BOARD
Backing board is very similar to mat board in that it comes in acid and acid-free versions and the same considerations apply when selecting your backing.
Cardboard - Basic option (often free!). Acidic so not recommended for conservation work or any artwork that has a sentimental or high monitary value. It's fairly easy to cut with a sharp X-acto knife.
Regular Foam Core - This is NOT acid-free, but it's still a good quality backing. Consists of a layer of foam wedged between two layers of paper. It's more ridged than card board and offers some moisture protection as well. It's easy to cut with a sharp X-acto knife. Perfect for most framing projects. Gives a neat, clean look to the back of your frame.
Acid-Free Foam Core - Same as regular foam core but with improved long-term performance because it is acid-free. A must for conservation work.
BUYING BACKING BOARD
You can find full sheets of cardboard and foam core in a variety of sizes at most craft and art supply stores as well as custom frame shops and online.
If you're using cardboard as your backing, you can simply cut a piece from an old box. Nothing like free backing board to reduce the cost of your framing project! Just remember it's acidic (as is regular foam core), so it won't protect precious artwork over the long haul. It may take a long time, but your artwork will eventually yellow.
CATEGORIES OF GLASS
Glass ("glazing") is also available in a range of options.
Standard - Most common option. Offers a clear finish. Good option for many framing situations, especially digital photos that can be easily reprinted (they will fade over time) and inexpensive posters. I use standard glass for all my framing projects (including artwork), but if you have a very special piece and it hangs in direct sunlight, you may want to consider using UV-Blocking glass (listed below).
Non-Glare - More expensive than standard glass because it offers a special finish that reduces glare. Good option for same situations listed above. Not recommended for shadow boxes or double-matted artwork because the special coating on the glass causes some distortion and reduces clarity when space is incresed between it and the artwork.
A Note About Non-Glare Glass:
Back when I was working as a custom framer, we offered a type of glass that had a hazy coating on top of it. It was like a really subtle version of that film some people put on their bathroom windows or back doors. It lets the light in but blurs the glass so you can't really see anything through it. You know the stuff I'm talking about. Anyway, non-glare was more expensive than standard glass and was designed to remove a lot of the glare caused by sunshine streaming into your living room and right onto your picture, therefore making it IMPOSSIBLE to see! The nerve of that sun! I used to think non-glare was superior to standard glass, but over time I began to realize that along with its ability to remove glare it also removed all the contrast and clarity of the framed piece. So you'll never catch me using any non-glare glass on my pictures. I like the sun. And I like the glare. Because I like the contrast and clarity in my pictures. Besides, if I can't see my pictures from sun glare, I can always take a step to the right or the left or hang the picture where the sun can't find it.
UV-Blocking - Over time, the UV rays of the sun can fade and damage your artwork. If this is a concern, particularly if you are framing something really valuable or sentimental, you should use UV-blocking glass. It comes in both clear and non-glare versions. Bet you know which one I recommend.
Acrylic Glazing (Plexiglass) - Available in the same categories above (standard, non-glare, UV-blocking)
BUYING GLASS
The same frame shops that offer full sheets of mat board also sell glass and/or acrylic (plexiglass). Most frame shops will custom cut a piece of glass to your measurements, but you can get the same glass (usually for much less) at a custom glass shop. The same places that sell windows and shower doors usually also sell picture frame glass (often plexiglass too) and will often cut if for you while you wait. Just call up the shop in question and ask if they cut picture frame glass. They'll let you know what they offer.
Of course, you can also order glass and acrylic online and have it custom cut to your measurements or buy it in bulk in standard sizes.
A Note About Acrylic Glazing (Plexiglass)
- Make sure you buy acrylic and NOT polycarbonate, which yellows over time.
- It scrates very easily and requires special cleaners. If you wipe it with Windex and a paper towel, it will scratch.
- It comes with a protective plastic covering on both sides that you peel off right before you put it in the frame (no cleaning required, if you do it right.).
- Typically available in sizes ranging from 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch. Don't buy anything less than 1/16 of an inch as it will be very flimsy and may warp and therefore distort your artwork.
Okay, that just about wraps it up. I'll be back tomorrow with tips on how to measure your own custom mat. Be sure to check out the resources I've listed below. Also, feel free to ask any questions in the comments section.
Online resources for custom framing supplies:
Graphic Dimensions (where I order most of my framing supplies)
Framing Supplies (never ordered from them, but they have a lot of helpful product info)
United Mfrs. Supplies, Inc. (never ordered from them, but they have a great selection of archival tape and foam core)
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